Mountaineering Expedition Reports

YRC Expedition to the Great White Peak, Jugal Himal, Nepal 1957

Abstract: This was the first expedition to the Himalayas to be sponsored by a single club and drawn exclusively from its own members. The area chosen was the Jugal Himal in Nepal. Few of the peaks in this area had been climbed, and the area had never been fully mapped. The expedition was asked to carry out a survey, which was very largely completed, and its mountaineering objective was to climb the virgin Great White Peak (7083m) – now known as Loengpo Gang – some ten-days walk north-east from Kathmandu. With over a hundred porters, two sirdars and six climbing Sherpas, the well-equipped team of six members established Base Camp above the the Phurbi Chyachumba Glacier. Camps I, II, and III were set up progressively higher on the glacier aiming for the col at its head. Having established Camp IV at about 5800m, a party of four set out to reconnoitre a route through the crevassed upper glacier. On the return from their high point just below the col, they were forced close to the foot of ice-cliffs by a series of large crevasses. The leader Crosby Fox and two Sherpas: Mingma Tensing and Lakpa Noorbu were killed in an avalanche.

YRC Expedition to the Apolobamba Range, Bolivia 1988

Abstract: The 1988 Yorkshire Ramblers’ Expedition to the Apolobamba range in Bolivia consisted of six members spending four to six weeks in the country. The intention was to provide an opportunity for classical mountaineering in a remote and little frequented area. Following a week for acclimatisation the team established a base camp in the Nubi valley. From there the peaks Cololo and Nevado Nubi were climbed, a botanical collection was made and ornithological sightings recorded. An exploratory trek was made around the peaks at the head of the valley. A sketch map of the area was compiled. Some difficulties with acclimatisation limited the number of peaks attempted but the opportunities for botanical collection exceeded expectation. The ascent of Cololo by the West ridge is a new route and the third ascent of the peak. The route on Nevado Nubi is a second ascent. Both are first British Ascents. Later Illimani in the Cordillera Real was climbed.

YRC Expedition to Dorje Lapka (6989m), Jugal Himal, Nepal 1995

Abstract: An attempt on Dorje Lakpa (6966m) via the West Ridge by a party of nine. An approach was made from the Jugal Himal side in the south to set up BC beside the Lingshing glacier. They established ABC and Camps 1 and 2 on the mountain, but the team was ultimately defeated by dangerous snow and poor weather conditions. A second group ascended the trekking peak of Naya Kanga (5846m) from the Ganga La, a high col between Helambu and Langtang.

YRC Second Expedition to Central Cordilleras Real and Cocapata, Bolivia 1999

Abstract: During June and July 1999, twelve members of the Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club visited Bolivia. Following a week of acclimatisation on the altiplano, five visited the Cocapata range near Cochabamba for exploratory rock climbing on granite peaks, while the remainder completed a two week trek in the Cordillera Real. Subsequently all combined for an ascent of Sajama. Two members then explored the Cordillera Occidental.

YRC Expedition to Lhakhang (6250m), Spiti, India 2008

Abstract: Seven Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club members attempted this unclimbed mountain in Spiti during the post-monsoon season. The approach to Spiti was made from the Sutluj valley over the Pin-Baba Pass, then via Kibber over the Parang La to the Pare Chu valley. They established their advanced base camp on the lateral moraines on the west of the Dhhun glacier, which allowed detailed reconnaissance of the NW face. Unseasonal and widespread snowfall on peaks in northern Spiti caused them to abandon the climb. They reached 5660m while exploring the glacier. The trek out followed the Pare Chu valley downstream and across to Tso Moriri.