1995 YRC Himalayan Expedition
Leader – Alan Kay
Dorje Lakpa, 22,930′ 6989m, in the Jugal Himal was chosen, for the 1995 YRC expedition, for these reasons:
Every description that one reads is in glowing terms such as “jagged ice summits are certainly some of the most impressive in the Himalayas” “The Jugal is a superb area and little frequented”…”This magnificent peak”, etc.;
The Club has an affinity with the Jugal – George Spenceley and Maurice Wilson were on our 1957 expedition to the Jugal and have been encouraging;
Dorjie Lakpa and the adjacent peaks should provide a challenge which is within our capabilities;
The Jugal and adjoining Langtang should provide excellent ‘trekking’ of an adventurous nature which should also be within our capabilities.
The peak was officially ascended in 1981 although its first real ascent was made without permission, secretly and in good style by a two strong British rope in 1980. They climbed in alpine style with one bivouac by the obvious and excellent west ridge rising from Tilman’s Pass East. It was a fine climb quite within the powers of experienced and competent alpinists. The mountain seems to have been climbed on five occasions since the first official ascent, on each occasion by the same west ridge.
I have received much detailed information from climbers who know the area and from the British Mountaineering Council. We shall be applying for a grant from the Mount Everest Foundation.
Some eighteen members and two others are intending to join the expedition, half of them climbers. Contacts have been made with agents in Nepal and costs are firming up. October has been chosen as the weather is then more dependable, with skies clearer than during the premonsoon period.
The approach march from Kathmandu will probably take ten days and will be an essential part of team’s the acclimatisation.
The intention is to approach Jugal from the south up the Langtang valley and approach the peak from the north west. Ged Campion is the climbing leader.
If you wish to be well informed about the area the following books are recommended:
Tents in the clouds, Monica Jackson;
1958 YRC Journal;
Nepal Himalaya, Bill Tilman;
Collins guide to Mtns, John Cleare.
The map opposite [below] shows the relationship of Dorje Lakpa to Lompo Gang, the revised name for the 1957 objective, Big White Peak.
