Kindred Club Journals
THE ALPINE JOURNAL, 1972. Vol. 11 No. 321
In the last YRC Journal the reviewer of the Alpine Journal No. 74, said that the Journal was so large and magnificent that to review it was not possible, one could only make obeisance! The present reviewer applauds these sentiments, but feels he will not be allowed to get away with it so easily. At the outset it must be repeated that the Alpine Journal has always been the premier club journal, and this number shows that it still holds that honoured place.
Leslie Stephen’s “Playground of Europe” has always been my favourite mountain book, and now, like Ko Ko “I’m glad to hear my opinion backed by a competent authority”. Sir Arnold Lunn in an absorbing centenary tribute to Leslie Stephen says that to him “The Playground of Europe” still seems to be perhaps (only perhaps, Sir Arnold?) the best book about mountaineering ever written. For humour, modesty, and fine prose this book will always stand alone. A monument to an age of mountaineering now regrettably long past.
The much publicised International Himalayan Expedition of 1971 to Everest was too generally written off as a failure. John Cleare, who went as a photographer, does not however accept this judgement. In spite of the failure to reach the summit by the south west face, the petty squabbling and dissension on the part of some members, the tragic death of Bahagunu, the bad weather and sickness, Cleare still feels that it was worth while. Later in the journal a reporter’s view is given by Murray Sayle of the Sunday Times. For a mountaineering novice Sayle gave a remarkable performance being one of the last four to leave the mountain after five weeks in the western Cwm.
In “Optical Phenomena for Mountaineers” John Harris tries to throw some light, or rather remove some shadows, from such sights as the Brocken Spectre, and the unexplained crosses seen in the sky by Whymper and the Taugwalders on their descent from the first ascent of the Matterhorn.
Those of us who are now getting on in life will gain some encouragement (or otherwise) from Walter Kirstein’s account of his ascent of the Piz Badile. For an over-seventy truly a magnificent achievement.
The Japanese are now much in evidence on the mountain landscape and some of their exploits are recorded in this journal. Akira Tahahashi writes of the 1971 ascent of the west wall of Manaslu, and Ryozo Yamamoto of the first ascent of the west and central peaks of Churan Himal.
A welcome change from this exalted stuff comes in a pleasing essay by K.C.F. on “Climbers”. Are they different from other men and if so why? K.C.F. brings in the word Pharisees which seems to arouse some disturbing misgivings
Riccardo Cassin recalls Italian climbing between the wars, and recollects how he and his companions arrived one August day in 1938 at the foot of the Eigerwand only to find the Austro-German team already on the face starting what was to be the first complete ascent. Cassin and his friends left, but won some compensation by their first ascent of the North Buttress of the Pointe Walker on the Jorasses.
These are but a few comments on the good things in this journal. Members, whether Alpine Club or not will read the whole with interest and enjoyment. Needless to say the photographs are of the same high standard with some hair raising rock climbing shots. In this connection Leo Dickenson writes of the difficulties of filming on the north face of the Eiger.
J.G.B.
CAIRNGORM CLUB JOURNAL. Vol. 18. No. 94. 1971.
The Ladies Scottish C.C. expedition to Alpefjord, Greenland, in 1970; hill walking in the Snowy Mountains and in the Laminton National Park, Queensland; an account of the first party led by Shipton from Katmandu to the Everest Ice Fall; another on the Ruwenzori. The rest are on Scotland: Coigach to An Teallach, rock-climbing on the N.E. coast, and three completions of all the Munros.
A.B.C.
CLIMBERS’ CLUB JOURNAL. 1970-71. Vol. XV. No. 5. New series. No. 95
The latest Climbers’ Club Journal opens with an editorial blast against complacency, apathy and wrong-headed views prevailing in the club. The debate to admit ladies has led to “signs of schism”, the age of the amateur and “the Old School League” have had their day. The Climbers’ Club had better look to its methods before it becomes a museum piece, etc. etc. And the final despairing cry, “Your club is dying. Help save it”.
Well, we know nothing of the Climbers’ Club’s domestic affairs, every club has its own problems, but glancing through this journal we cannot believe that the club is in such desperate straits as this. Mr. Lewis is too pessimistic about his own journal. He has produced a journal with an attractive collection of articles of both historical and contemporary interest, with about 35 pages of new climbs.
John Gregory writes of the abortive attempt to climb the Ogre in the Karakoram in which our member Clive Rowland took part; Dennis Gray of rock climbing history in what is in fact a long and informative review of “The Black Cliff. Clogwyn Du’r Arddu” by Soper, Wilson and Crew. Those who have read Peter Steele’s book, “Doctor on Everest” and particularly our medical members, will be interested to read here the reprint of an article he contributed to The Lancet on “Medicine on Everest”. The Englishman’s main conversational standby being the weather, and a very limited one at that, we welcome P. Davies’s informative article, “Meteorology and Climbing”. Other writers deal with Ireland, “The Poisoned Glen, Donegal”, the Dauphine, (the Pic Gaspard) and Patagonia, There are also notes on the latest activities in the Lake District by Ian Roper, the Peak District by Paul Nunn and D. Carnell, the South West by F. E. R. Cannings, and Pembroke by J. Perrin, together with reviews of new books and journals.
CRAVEN POTHOLE CLUB JOURNAL. Vol. 4. No. 6. 1972
Brief accounts of new pots and extensions to old pots. No nonsense, no frills and most of it solid Yorkshire stuff. Ghar Parau (Iran), Slanting Cave (Kingsdale), Greensett—Wold End (Whernside), Kirk Gill Pot (Langstrothdale), Mongo Gill Hole (Greenhow), Bishopdale Gavel area, Great Douk, and notes on a score of other local pots and caves. For news of what is happening this journal is always good value. The photographs are worth looking at, including for the first time two in colour, and there is some climbing at Thornton Quarry and Damavand (Iran).
A.B.C.
FELL AND ROCK JOURNAL. 1970. No. 62. Vol. XXL No. III
Considering the size of the Fell and Rock Club’s membership this is rather a slight journal, without any contribution of much weight. Fell and Rock Club members must be as reluctant as Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club members to put pen to paper. For this reason the editor must have thanked Heaven for Ian Roper whose name appears three times in the contents list, first for his graphic account of the ascent of the South Pillar of the Cima di Castello, second for his “Leader’s Eye View”, a short study of a leader’s mental stresses on a hard climb, and, third but by no means least, his coverage of notes on new climbs. He also contributes two fine atmospheric camera studies of Wastwater and the Vale of Grasmere.
Eric Arnison found his long Johns a great comfort during a cold night before climbing Point Lenara on Mount Kenya; a noble effort for a 69 year old. F. Alcock contributes an amusing article, “The Frightful Fifty-Second”, this being the fifty-second week of the year when hut wardens sally forth and pressgang club members into a weekend of hut maintenance.
Some poetry as well as prose is included, which makes a refreshing change and the journal carries a substantial review of new books
and journals.
T.G.R.
THE MIDLAND ASSOCIATION OF MOUNTAINEERS’ JOURNAL. 1971-72. VOL. V. NO. 3.
This Midland Association of Mountaineers’ Journal makes it clear that club members by no means confine their activities to the Midlands. A wide ranging collection of articles cover such varied subjects as “A Short Walk in Kashmir” (Frank Solari) to “The Longest Pub Crawl in England” (Stan Crawford), which turns out to be the Pennine Way. An original, and to some, attractive way of approaching this walk. Other members were busy in the U.S.A., on Mount Kenya, the Transvaal and of course the Alps and Scotland.
This is the club’s fiftieth anniversary number, and we congratulate our friends of the Midland Association of Mountaineers on attaining their club’s jubilee.
J.G.B.
THE PINNACLE CLUB JOURNAL. FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY EDITION, 1971
“And those who can’t climb are admitted instead,
On a knowledge of knots and the use of the ‘thread’ “
The one and only John Hirst quoted by Trilby Wells, one of only four of the original members of the Pinnacle Club still left. She refers to “six of us … the first women to go down Gaping Ghyll, at the invitation of the Yorkshire Ramblers” (and provides two photographs of the occasion). “This was a great adventure in those days, but now is just an everyday occurrence.” But not, regrettably perhaps, with the Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club. The articles and the distinguished contributors nicely bridge the half century, and also Wales, Australia, Scotland, the Dolomites, Widdop, Africa and Afghanistan. There is no longer such a thing as “an easy day for a lady”: only XS and continued success to the Pinnacle Club.
A.B.C.
THE RUCKSACK CLUB JOURNAL. VOL. XVI. NOS. 3 & 4. ISSUES 62 & 63.
The Rucksack Club could always be relied upon to produce a good, sound journal replete with solid Lancastrian virtues, and this is no exception.
Dennis Davis does not give away his age but he was delighted to find that there was enough “Life in the Old Dog Yet” to complete, along with Colledge, Collister and Ferguson, an ascent of the north face of the Grosshorn in the Oberland. John Allen and Nobby Clarke both contribute articles on the Manchester Nepalese Expedition of 1970 which just failed to reach the summit of Nampa, but apparently a good time was had by all. Cliff Meredith went to the Karakoram with other Lancashire lads and reached the top of an unnamed mountain which they christened “Pointed Peak” (17,500 ft.) and brought back some fine photos.
Writing from “Down Under” Joe Walmsley writes an enticing •account of the country and the climbing in New Zealand.
Arthur Clarke tells of his experiences with the impressive sounding London University Graduate Mountaineering Club Expedition to East Greenland 1968/69, which entailed a 250 mile sledge haul with exploration in the Mount Forel area.
Nearer home John Eastwood, with four companions, did the Lakeland 2,500 ft. tops one weekend between 7.10 hrs. Saturday, and 05.00 hrs. Tuesday, and Peter Roberts made an extended trek through the Highlands from Loch Duich to Achnashellac.
Finally, in addition to New Climbs and a sad list of obituaries, there is an intriguing technical note on nostril expanders. This useful gadget is not yet a commercial item, but the author, Philip Brockbank, gives full instructions for the do-it-yourself man.
J.G.B.
SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING CLUB JOURNAL. MAY 1972
Sandy Cousins, in an article on his splendid walk from Cape Wrath to Glasgow mentions his visit to the Yorkshire Ramblers’ Club in camp at Lone—”This was in true safari style—mess tent, tables, chairs and an ample wine cellar—they do not believe in roughing it in hotels like the Scottish Mountaineering Club”. No prize for guessing whose tent that was. This number is satisfyingly Scottish in feeling from the scientific exactidudes of the opening article by Gordon Manley on Scotland’s semi-permanent snows, via the controlled nightmares of “Pink Elephants in the Black Shoot” (of Beinn Eunaich) or the Thin Red Line on the Trilleachan Slabs, to the period excerpts of “The First Scottish Ice Climbers”. “New climbs” appears perhaps for the the last time: a moratorium on publication of this information has been proposed to safeguard the opportunity for future generations of Scottish climbers to exercise the skills and pleasures of route finding \ and exploration on crags in their own land. In line with this thought a new editor flexes his editorial elbow on threats to mountaineering values and traditions from rules, regulations, “harbour-masters of the hills”, safety devices, too many refuges, and adequate equipment.
A.B.C.
The Librarian also gratefully acknowledges the following journals:
Alpine Journal, 1970, 1971
Appalachia 1970, 1971, 1972
Appalachia Bulletins 1970, 1971, 1972
Bristol University Speleological Society Proceedings, 1970-71, 1972
Craven Pothole Club Journal, 1970, 1971
Deutscher Alpenverein. Mitteilungen. Jugend am Berg. 1970, 1971, 1972
Gritstone Club Journal, 1970
Himalayan Journal, 1969
Japanese Alpine Club Journal, 1969, 1970, 1971
Leeds University Speleological Association. Review, 1971, 1972
Mountain Club of South Africa Journal, 1969, 1970, 1971
National Speleological Society (USA) Bulletin, 1970, 1971, 1972
National Speleological Society (USA) News, 1971, 1972
Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal, 1971
South Wales Caving Club Newsletter, 1972
Spelunca, 1971, 1972
Swiss Alpine Club. Bulletins, 1971, 1972
Swiss Alpine Club. Reviews, 1970, 1971, 1972