For anyone interested in the history of British rock climbing the name Colin Kirkus stands proudly alongside those other great names in the sport’s Pantheon.

During the 1930’s Kirkus pioneered a series of climbs that remain some of the finest middle-grade outings in Britain. Indeed, there can be few climbers who have not delighted in ‘Nose Direct’, ‘Great Slab’, ‘Mickledore Grove’, etc. Yet despite the fame of his climbs little has been written about the man himself.

Now, with the publication of ‘Hands of a Climber’, the man behind the glories is revealed.

In this meticulously researched biography Dean has unearthed a wealth of fascinating interactions of the period, such as Kirkus’ preference for the bonhomie of Ogwen Youth Hostel compared to the somewhat more stifled atmosphere of Helyg. Here also is revealed the mutual respect between Kirkus and that other dominant figure of the time, John Menlove Edwards. It is poignant to recall that both these great, yet vastly different men would ultimately die in tragic circumstances.

But greatness is not measured in achievement alone. Complementing the many observations of the period are comments from those contemporaries Dean interviewed for this book. Names such as Longland, Hargreaves, Pallis.       All, past and present, speak with a common emphasis on Kirkus’ simple joy of being amongst the hills, combined with a rare modesty for one at the cutting edge of the sport.

Superbly illustrated with many previously unpublished photographs unearthed from the Alpine Club, this book is a fine addition to the history of the sport.

Ultimately, what Dean has achieved in this book is a compelling portrait of a shy, modest yet great man.

“Hands of a Climber” by Steve Dean, £14.95 Ernest Press, 1 Thomas Street, Holyhead, Gwynedd