Camping Meet, Swaledale

Meet Report: 11-13 August 2020.

Blakewaite Lead Mine, Gunnerside Gill
Blakewaite Lead Mine, Gunnerside Gill

Challenging times call for thinking outside of the box solutions and by early evening 10 members, a PM and guest had arrived at the Usha Gap campsite in Muker. This must be the first YRC UK mainland camping meet for some considerable time. Covid-19 had played havoc with the meet calendar but at last members could meet again in person and do what we all enjoy – being in the hills and socialising albeit in this case keeping physically well distanced. Staff provided a warm welcome and the campsite was geared up for the new regulations with spotless (but a reduced number of) facilities, hand sanitiser galore and two huge additional camping fields – even shouting would have failed to attract the attention of the two members who chose to camp at the far end of the site.

Usha Gap Campsite

Mick B, Helen S and John S were the first arrivals and after pitching  tents drove up to Keld and set off up the Pennine Way to Tan Hill on a lovely warm day. They found the peace and quiet of the walk a complete contrast to the groups of bikers, cyclists and tourists milling about at the Inn. After suitable refreshments, they returned to Keld via the quiet path leading down Stonesdale to Ravenseat and Whitsundale.

Other members did walks on the drive up Swaledale including David H and Christine M who walked up Gunnerside Beck to Gunnerside Gill and had a look at the Sir Francis lead mine. Then crossed the river and returned to the village. Alan K did a short 9km walk from Reeth, climbed Harkerside Moor to the shooting lodge and circled back to Reeth via Vicarage Bridge and Swale Hall.

 In the evening several remained  on the campsite and cooked their evening meal whilst others walked the short distance into Muker and found they could take advantage of the ‘Eat Out to Help Out’ scheme at the Farmers’s Arms which was a pleasant surprise for some – although all meals had to be eaten outside and midges made any socialising after about 8.00 pm uncomfortable – so early to bed.

Wednesday 12th August

In humid, hot conditions a large party including Mick B, Helen S, John S, Robert C, Richard T and PM Adam L set out from the campsite for a classic Swaledale round. They walked up to Thwaite to pick up the Pennine Way and followed it high above the Swale to Kisdon Force where they detoured down to the river and saw lots of people paddling and swimming – some of us were very  tempted  to join them! Then to Crackpot Hall and a lunch stop at the head of Swinner Gill. On being told we were not yet half-way your scribe decided she definitely was at more than her halfway stage and returned alone to Muker, down the thinly trod path beside Swinner Gill, where she bumped into Alan L ( who had  walked to Gunnerside) at the pub. After ‘forcing’ down a pint, they walked back to the campsite and had a convivial afternoon chatting with members who had already returned.

The others followed the Coast-to-Coast route over Lownathwaite Moor and down to the Blakethwaite Smelt Mill complex beside Gunnerside Gill with its substantial ruins and flue, peat store and lime kiln dating from 1820 (see: https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1015830 and https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1015857). John found a number of samples of galena as they crossed the site of Bunton Hush and on down the valley to Gunnerside. With the pub closed, happily the tearoom was open for much needed rehydration. They returned to Usha Gap along the riverside path with the odd spot of cooling rain to complete an excellent day.

David H and Alan K followed the river upstream from Muker to Swinner Gill, and inspected the cave entrance at Swinner Gill Kirk. Then across the moor to Gunnerside Gill where they had lunch. They crossed Melbecks Moor to Hard Level Gill, then down the track to Surrender Bridge, and over Feetham Pasture to Blades. They returned via Low Row Pastures to Gunnerside where they stopped for a pot of tea. Then back to Usha Gap with another stop at the Farmer’s Arms for soft drinks (!) An eight hour trip – around 16 plus miles. Christine M walked to Keld along  the Pennine Way and walked back to Muker on the path  west of the river.

Alan Kay, Swinner Gill Kirk

Rory N was the only member to tackle the South side of the Swale. He set off steeply on a disappearing footpath up Muker Side, then up beside Greenseat Beck onto Muker Common. The upper part of the beck looked as if it had been “hushed” (mining technique using a dam to build a head of water then destroying it to strip topsoil). He continued round Lover Gill Head to Lovely Seat. It was very hot and sticky, and slow going as this area is made of either deep peat hag or big tussocks with bog between them. He dropped down to the top of the Buttertubs pass, and worked up towards Great Shunner Fell, but increasing rumbles of thunder and spotty rain persuaded him to shorten his walk and he cut over the shoulder and down Green Side to Thwaite and back to the campsite. He had a good view of a buzzard on Muker Common and heard shooting in the distance (it was the Glorious 12th)  which seemed to be coming from the Wensleydale side.

Tim J and Harvey L went off to indulge in some mine exploration. Parking at Surrender Bridge near Reeth and armed with a vague description from one of Harvey’s mates, they walked up Hard Level Gill past the Old Gang smelt mill to a likely looking adit. They followed this for a couple of hundred metres through a beautifully walled passage to a collapse where a natural aven was met. Despite determined efforts, no way on could be found so they returned to the surface to prospect further. Shortly, another adit near gill level was found which looked more promising. Thigh deep wading in icy water along a partly natural passage eventually reached a dug out collapse, shortly after which the water deepened rapidly until it approached neck deep on Harvey. With no sign of respite ahead, retreat was called for.

Later research confirmed that this was Hard Level Gill Mine, which we thought was where we wanted to be. It turned out that Harvey’s mate had meant Moulds Mine which isn’t even in the same valley. Never mind, they got underground!

Much as the evening before some strolled into Muker for their evening meal others remained on site. On Wednesday evening the meet reached its full complement with the arrival of Becca H and also Alan Hinkes – a late but welcome addition to the meet.

Thursday 13th August

The hills were topped with mist and it was rather dull and damp as we packed away the tents – indeed there was some frustration from the two recently arrived guests  as they had just left Ingleton  in brilliant warm sunshine. Nevertheless it made for much more comfortable walking conditions.

Many members left after breakfast and started to wind their way home. David H and Christine M drove through Wensleydale, had a look around Jervaulx Abbey and did a walk. Alan K walked from Keld to Ravenseat in Whitsun Dale. The murky weather didn’t inspire him to go any further, so he spent some time admiring the fine waterfalls, gorges and river scenery in Whitsun Dale, and returned to Keld the way he’d come.

A  party including Mick B, Helen S, Tim J, Richard T, Becca H, Alan H and two of Becca’s friends Craig and Debby set out to do a little known varied walk from Marske on the other side of Reeth, suggested by Mick. They set off from the bridge over Marske Beck and up into the Clints Wood to emerge in the lovely upper valley. They continued to follow Marske Beck to Helwith and on past massed yellow field pansies to the Prys Level mine. Alan H had been into the lower valley before to climb on Clints Scar and was pleased to discover this part of his home turf he’d not visited previously. They stopped for lunch on misty Marrick Moor in the lee of a wall and returned through the blooming heather to the Fremington Edge track to pick up the Coast-to-Coast route back to Maske. A small diversion was made to visit the C17 Pillimire Bridge and its adjacent water wheel which is said to have been built to generate electricity for nearby Skelton Hall, but the scheme was never implemented and construction of the Hall, which is still partly a mere shell, was never finished.

This was a very enjoyable and, under the circumstances, well attended meet. Thanks to Tim Josephy who has worked tirelessly searching for suitable venues in order that the Club can resume Meets.

Helen Smith

Meet Attendees:

Rory Newman – President, Mick Borroff, Robert Crowther, David Hick, Christine Marriott (G), Alan Hinkes (Weds only), Becca Humphreys (Weds only), Craig Perkins (G) – day visit, Debby Kuhlmann (G) – day visit, Alan Kay, Adam Linford (PM), Alan Linford, Harvey Lomas, Tim Josephy, Helen Smith, John Sutcliffe, Richard Taylor.

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