Ennerdale meet, Lake District

Pillar Rock

Meet report 4th – 6th October 2024

This was an enjoyable visit to one of the Lake District’s remoter spots with the advantage of the Lower Gillerthwaite Field Centre being well up the valley, with better access to the higher peaks.

One of the greatest challenges of the weekend was getting there. The early arrivals drove straight up through the gate at the end of the metalled road for the final 2 miles up to the Centre. However, this gate is closed and locked in the evening and unfortunately the centre had neither informed the YRC nor told us the key code for the padlock. With no phone signal at the Centre it was a particularly stressful time for the late arrivals, at the end of a tiring drive, to find their way forward barred. One member looked particularly frazzled as he had also assumed he would be fed on arrival (and its a long way back down the valley). Nevertheless all was eventually resolved.

On Thursday Helen and Michael took advantage of a favourable weather forecast and arrived in the North West a day early, walking the coastal footpath from St Bees to Whitehaven in glorious weather. Stuart also on Thursday ascended Haystacks from Gatesgarth via Scarth Gap before overnighting in a tent on an airy ledge just below the summit of Fleetwith Pike. Mark, also tempted by the coast on his way to the meet on Friday, stopped for a quick walk around Sunderland point near Morecambe.

St Bees Head

 During the weekend the valley and mountains, on both sides of Ennerdale, were thoroughly explored. On Friday Helen and Michael walked the south eastern ridge starting with Red Pike and finishing with Haystacks before heading back along a descending path from Scarth Gap back to the Centre. The route was repeated by Rory on Saturday as far as Scarth Gap, and also by Mark on Sunday.  On Friday Stuart walked up the valley to Black Sail Youth Hostel. He enjoyed spectacular views of Pillar Rock on his return along the south bank of the River Liza.

 On Saturday, Conrad and Stuart made for Black Sail and then walked part way up Sail Beck towards the pass, before turning left and contouring under Boat How Crags to reach Beck Head. Turning west they scrambled the Rib End scree to the twin summits of Kirk Fell. Descending the mountain through Kirk Fell Crags was tricky in places, but after reaching Black Sail pass and dodging the fell runners they headed towards Pillar. The wind had picked up as they crossed Looking Stead and the right turn towards the High Level Traverse in the lee of the mountain brought welcome relief. The crossing of the HLT via Robinson’s Cairn was exposed in places: being close up to the huge cliffs and monumental bulk of Pillar Rock itself made for an intimidating spectacle. The Shamrock Traverse towards the top of the Rock was slippery in places and the subsequent climb up the scree and gullies made for an exciting way to reach the summit.  They descended the easier west slope to Ennerdale Water with less wind and grand views making a pleasant end to the day.

The two climbers, Mark and Richard headed for West Wall, a four pitch VD climb on the West face of Pillar rock. Mark was expecting a relatively easy day. This was not to be.  With a long and tiring slog up carrying a heavy sack, a climb that was quite cold on the hands, and a route that was not so easy to follow, he was  glad the route wasn’t too technical. They strung a couple of pitches together and topped out on Low Man and scrambled up via the Old West Route (M)  to High Man. The descent which had seemed tricky in the guide was by two obvious abseils –  job done, they were down. They walked up to Pillar along the ridge past the top of Black Crag and Little Scoat Fell to Steeple and then descended to the Ennerdale Valley via Steeple’s North ridge. They arrived back at the accommodation earlier than expected having had a super day – a not too difficult cold ascent of Pillar Rock followed by a nice ridge walk in the wind.

Pillar

The two cyclists Tim and Harvey independently roamed the forestry tracks of Ennerdale which included in Harvey’s case an unsuccessful shopping trip down valley for a bottle of wine. Tim cycled up to Black Sail hostel and left his bike, walked up to Looking Stead and along towards Pillar. He turned back not far from the summit as he judged the wind blasts to be too severe for a lone pensioner. Retrieving the bike he rode down the South side of the valley, on a difficult single track along the lake. After coffee in Ennerdale Bridge he returned to the hostel by the well-constructed Coast to Coast path.

Michael, Helen and Felicity headed up to Pillar rock for a glimpse of the climbers before also doing the high level traverse in the opposite direction to Stuart and Conrad who they met coming up from Black Sail Pass. With very windy conditions they also decided to give Pillar summit a miss and headed down to Black Sail hostel and walked down the track back towards the Centre with John and Carol who had enjoyed their walk up and down the valley.

Black Sail YHA

Ged and Imogen joined the meet on Saturday evening in time for Rory’s tasty dinner and on Sunday they both headed to Pillar for a 13 km round trip.

The Smiths and Felicity did a short round of Bowness Knott with good 360 degree views of Ennerdale. Tim went to the Whinlatter Forest Centre and frightened himself on some of their mountain bike routes.

Bowness Knott Top

It was a good weekend. The weather was much better than originally forecast. Warm in the valley but distinctly chilly on the tops with the wind at times providing challenging conditions. The threatened rain never arrived –  even on Sunday when it looked very dark and threatening over Pillar.

The hostel was huge and sprawling, with the enthusiastic owners having plans for further development. With a farmyard menagerie of dogs, cats, hens, geese and ducks running around outside there was plenty going on. We even got to see the rescued hedgehogs which the owners brought indoors especially for our benefit. The Centre was rather idiosyncratic. It had modern bathrooms but with shower heads so interestingly angled it defied anyone to keep their shoes, towel and clothes dry. The dining room including all the crockery and cutlery was up narrow stairs from the kitchen which consequently provided extra exercise for our more agile members during the serving and clearing away of dinner. It was comfortable in the sitting area particularly once the fire was roaring and the usual relaxed chat followed on Saturday evening following a good day out for everyone.

Attendees: Conrad Tetley, Helen Smith, Tim Josephy, Rory Newman, Mark Rothwell, Michael Smith, Harvey Lomas, Stuart Dix, Carol Whalley, John Whalley, Ged Campion (Saturday night only), Imogen Campion (Sat night only), Richard Smith and Felicity Roberts

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