Proceedings Of The Club

The Eighth Annual Club Meet
was held on October 27th and 28th, at Arncliffe, and the members who were fortunate enough to be able to attend had a very jolly time. Postponed to give members politically inclined an opportunity to do what they conceived to be their duty at the General Election, the Club Meet was unusually late, and this, combined with the week’s bad weather, reduced the attendance below past years.

Arncliffe is one of the most charming villages in Yorkshire, and Littondale one of the most beautiful side valleys of Wharfedale. Unfortunately, or fortunately, it is difficult of access, and when one’s stay is limited from Saturday evening to Sunday evening a drive of sixteen miles from Skipton is inevitable. Some of the party met the President at Bell Busk on Saturday morning, and walked by way of Malham and Gordale, arriving in time to meet the remainder of the party who drove from Skipton.

The following day was spent in exploring the head of the valley. The hills were white with the first snows of the approaching winter. Sunshine and shower in quick succession, and a clear atmosphere, rewarded the party with many glorious views. Cosh Beck was followed as far as Cosh House where lunch was eaten, and the return journey was made along the ridge of Cosh Knott to the head of Halton Gill. Descending the Gill a prominent and exceedingly active member of the Club, who had succeeded earlier in the day in inducing about half the members of the party to jump into the Skirfare, met with his reward by slipping into a deep pool, to the great delight of his former victims. The members were made very comfortable at the “Falcon” by the landlord and his family. Two excellent dinners were served, followed on the one night by an evening round the fire, when the Yorkshire Ramblers fully sustained their reputation for fun and jollity, and on the other by a long, wet, but cheery drive to Skipton.

The Annual General Meeting
was held on Tuesday, October 30th, 1900. Mr. Alfred Barran occupied the chair. The Committee’s Report, of which the  following is a summary, was presented and adopted :-

The Committee have pleasure in presenting their eighth annual report. The Club now consists of ten honorary and sixty-one ordinary members, a gratifying increase of one  honorary and nine ordinary members. During the year eight general and four committee meetings have been held. Seven Lectures have been given as follows :-

1899. – October 18th. At the Philosophical Hall. “The Growth of Mountaineering.” By Mr. Horace Walker.

October 31st. At the Club Room. “The Ancient Glaciers of Yorkshire.” By Mr. Percy F. Kendall.
November 27th. At the Alexandra Hall. “Climbing and Exploration in the Bolivian Andes.” By Sir Martin  T, Conway.

1900.-January 16th. “A Tour in the Graian Alps.” By J. J. Brigg.

January 30th. “Cortina and the Ampezzo Valley.” By S. D. Kitson.
February 13th. “Southern Greece and the Cyclades.” By J. N. Barran.
February 27th. “Vesuvius” By Dr. Tempest Anderson.
March 13th. “Inland Norway.” By Howard Priestman.

The Committee are pleased to report that the Treasurer’s Accounts show the largest balance the Club has so far had to its credit.

The second number of the Club Journal has appeared during the year, and the Committee consider it has fulfilled the promise of the first. Unfortunately the circulation of the journal has not been sufficiently large to make its publication a financial success. This was anticipated, and a guarantee fund was formed to meet the contingency. The Committee regret that a larger number of members did not become guarantors as then the burden would have been very light. In future it is proposed to publish the journal once a year.

The Committee have again to acknowledge the generosity of those members who have added books and maps to the Club’s Library. To meet the requirements of the increasing library a new bookcase has been placed in the upper room.

The following members were elected to hold office during the ensuing year :-President, Mr. W. Cecil Slingsby; Vice-Presidents, Mr. Alfred Barran and Dr. Tempest Anderson; Treasurer, Mr. John Davies; Secretary, Mr. Lewis Moore; Assistant Secretary, Mr. Frank Constantine; Committee, Messrs. J. C. Atkinson, J. N. Barran, L. S. Calvert, T. Gray, A. E. Kirk, F. H. Mayo, W. Parsons, and A. Riley.

Lectures
The Editor wishes to emphasise the paragraph which appeared under this head in the last number. Interesting, and marked by the excellence of their matter and accompanying photographs, the Lectures continue to deserve the Club’s most hearty support. He hopes the members will welcome the newly-adopted form of advice and use the cards enclosed to invite their friends. The following Lectures have been given during the last four months:-

November 27th, 1900. “Caves around Ingleborough.” By Mr. S. W. Cuttriss.
January 22nd, 1901. “Here and There in the Oberland.” By Mr. George Yeld.
February 12th. “A Fortnight’s Tramp in the English Lake District.” By Mr. J. M. Nicol.
February 26th. “The Grand Canon of the Colorado.” By Dr. Tempest Anderson.

To be followed by:-

March 12th. “Some Dolomite Strongholds.” By Mr. Alfred Barran.
March 26th. “Climbing in the Lake District,” with Stereoscopic Views. By Messrs. W. Parsons and A. Riley.
Mrs. Jackson had promised to open the season for us with a Lecture on November 9th, but was unfortunately unable to do so owing to a family bereavement, but we hope to have an opportunity of hearing her in the near future.

New Members

Claude Barton, Dyneley Lodge, near Burnley, Lancashire.
A. L. Clover, Lieut. R.A., Royal Artillery Barracks, Leeds.
G. H. Dawes, M.R.C.S., 254, St. PhiIip’s Road, Sheffield.
G. F. R. Freeman, Queen’s Brewery, Sheffield.
H. R. Hirst, Croft House, Soothill, Batley.
R. T. Horner, Beech Grove, Harrogate.
H. T. Kelsey, 2, Woodsley Terrace, Leeds.
G. H. Kilburn, The Grammar School, Batley.
F. Leonard, 26, Fitzwilliam Street, Huddersfield.
W. H. Witherby, 2, Woodsley Terrace, Leeds.

Six members have resigned during the past year.

The Club Abroad

Only a few of the members who went abroad last year have sent us particulars of the climbing they did.

Cecil Atkinson was at Zermatt and got the Obergabelhorn and Weisshorn, but his other projects were interfered with by bad weather.

Alfred Barran went to the Dolomites and was fortunate in making a number of ascents, some of them being first-class. His list includes Cinque Torri, the Croda da Lago, Tofana by the via Inglesi, Col Rosa, Rosengarten Spitze, Delago Thurm (traverse from N.), Haupt Thurm Kesselkogel, Zahnkofel, the Langkofel, and Fünflingerspitze (by the Schmitt-kamin).

Rev. L. S. Calvert was at Cortina and rambled round Tofana and the Croda Rossa with his camera. He was more engaged in securing negatives than in bagging peaks.

W. Cecil Slingsby and Howard Priestman, with G. P. Baker, made some new expeditions in Norway. Particulars of these are given on pages 236 and 237.

In the autumn J. A. Green spent a short holiday in Norway, round about the Horungertinder, but the intense cold and daily fall of snow limited the amount of his climbing.

Dr. Tempest Anderson went to the States and toured in the Yellowstone region, bringing back many beautiful photographs of the places he visited.

Walker’s Gully

THE second ascent of Walker’s Gully, in the north face of the Pillar Rock, was made by Messrs. Parsons and Riley on the 4th of July last.

The bottom pitch presented some difficulty in consequence of the rocks being wet and the handholds, therefore, very slippery.

At the top of the second pitch were found the stockings of poor Jones – a reminiscence of the 7th January, 1899. The last difficulty is truly imposing. Perpendicular walls – with no appearance of hand or foot holds, and the upper part overhanging several feet, give the pitch a most sensational appearance, and some confidence is needed to make the attack. This, however, was negotiated and without the use of the small rock which, according to Jones, proved “the key of the situation.”

The whole climb occupied three and a half hours, but much of this time was taken up in lunch and in photography.

Though this ascent was made by two men, this number is not to be recommended. It is really a “three-man” climb.

W. P.

Descent Of Alum Pot

ALUM or Helln Pot is situated on the flank of Simon Fell, about half a mile west of Selside, in Ribblesdale. At the surface it is in shape an ellipse, about 130 feet from north to south, and 40 feet across from east to west. In depth the main chasm is about 200 feet; it then continues underground in a series of pitches to a total depth of about 300 feet from the surface. The pothole has been descended on several occasions since the first attempt in 1847. Particulars will be found in Professor Boyd Dawkins’ “Cave  Hunting” and in Speight’s “Craven and North-West Yorkshire Highlands.”

On July 22nd, 1900, several members of the Club made another descent. For convenience the party camped on the spot, which enabled them to make the most of the short time at their disposal. Mr. C. Scriven generously provided tents and camp appurtenances. The Weather on the day of arrival was unfortunately very wet; little more therefore was done than to make a preliminary examination of the underground passages of Long Churn, one of which opens into Alum Pot about 80 feet from the surface. A trial descent for 100 feet, by rope ladder was also made down the main chasm itself. On the following day a ladder was fixed on the east side of  the pothole and a descent made to the broad ledge which runs almost completely round the hole 100 feet down. Another ladder was then lowered from that level, and the descent continued by Messrs. Parsons, Booth, and Swithinbank to the bottom. Owing to the great fall of water into the large chamber near the bottom, the explorers’ hand lights were repeatedly extinguished, and no attempt could be made at a proper survey there. Lack of time prevented the rest of the party – Messrs. Cuttriss, Gray, Moore, Riley, and Scriven – from reaching the bottom, but most of them descended to the curiously-formed bridge which spans the chasm just below the 100 feet ledge, and enjoyed the exceedingly line view from that point. The wonderful brilliance of the sunlit and moisture-laden moss with which the sides of the chasm are there thickly covered, combined with the uncanny effect of the vapours rising from the lower rift, formed a scene which even cave explorers do not often come across.

It is hoped to make another descent under more favourable conditions of weather, and complete the survey of the entire pot-hole, as drawings hitherto published give a very erroneous impression of its shape and character.

Easter At Wasdale Head

During the Easter of 1900 the outward aspect and the general surroundings of Wasdale were of a character somewhat tending to damp, and certainly to chill, one’s climbing ardour, but, the hotel entered, this impression was speedily forgotten when the goodly number of familiar faces of old friends and habitués were seen.

Two lady climbers graced the gathering, and ably showed how many of the
arétes and chimneys should be properly negotiated. In fact, Mr. Editor, your correspondent took advantage of a kind invitation to join a large party in a scramble up the North Climb on Pillar Rock, chiefly in order to see how ladies managed its several interesting little pitches. He was astonished to see the ease and skill shown in working up the traverse, cave pitch, nose, &c., &c., and in after musings has sorrowfully come to the conclusion that even on the rocks they are becoming the better halves, and leading us on to higher and more dizzy flights.

Owing to the severe storm which preceded Easter there was an ample amount of snow in the gullies to tempt many climbers to spend their time in practising in miniature some of the lessons learnt in Switzerland. Deep Ghyll was much in evidence, and at the commencement of the holiday it was possible to pass up its whole length without meeting with any obstruction by way of pitches, though on the last day, during a descent, the writer, to his cost, found that below the top pitch an embryonic bergschrund had formed, which was just large enough to trip one up in an unpleasant fashion. The ‘ snow in the Great End Gullies was distinctly good. One gentleman, a visitor from a foreign strand, proudly stated that he had fallen in one headlong flight from the top to the bottom of one of these gullies, finishing up a good performance by appearing at the hotel in fit condition to make a hearty meal and then start on a cycle ride to his temporary home. It thus appears that tumbling down steep snow is not so dangerous as it is sometimes reported to be, and with care a fall of some 300 feet may be safely accomplished.

Owing chiefly to the general damp, slippery, and icy condition of the rocks – which latter treated a few climbers to symptoms of frost-bite – no new climbs were recorded. A few were planned and one or two cracks attempted by enthusiasts, but the majority were satisfied with visits to their old friends, Moss Ghyll, the Oblique Chimney, Napes Needle, &c., which, however, by the adverse condition of the rocks, almost appeared like new friends.

After all, one great charm of Wasdale is, when the substantial dinner has been safely stowed away, to congregate in the billiard-room to watch and pass rude remarks upon, ‘ kind friends who perform wonderful acrobatic feats for our enlightenment. Then, before toddling to bed, to draw round the fire and talk over deeds accomplished, warble sweetly, criticise and condemn, as is usual, the accomplishments of better men than ourselves, and finally finish up by talking kindly to and admonishing the leader who has during the day been laboriously pulling us up over jammed stones and through awkward squeezes.

A. R.

New Expeditions In Norway In 1900

SÖNDMÖRE.

Kvitteggen
(1,705 metres) By The North-West Ridge. – July 14th. A grand rock climb, a worthy companion to that of Slogen from the north-west. This was made by Messrs. G. P. Baker, Howard Priestman, and Wm. Cecil Slingsby, who were admirably led by Lars Haugen. The party were all but beaten within 150 feet of the summit by a crag which overhung a notch in the ridge. This was eventually turned on the east.

JUSTEDALSBRÆ.

The Aabrekkebræ
. – July 18th. After failing to make a pass from the north-east corner of this grand glacier, on account of the danger of avalanches, Fröken Bertheau, Messrs. Baker and Slingsby, with Hogrenning as porter, spent some hours hacking a path through the séracs very pleasantly until further progress was almost impossible, and then returned to the valley of Olden, where a great flood was doing considerable damage, and a little later carried away a bridge which a short time before had been crossed by the party. The following day this bridge was seen floating down the lake of Olden.

This grand glacier was once descended by Mr. and Mrs. Baker.

The Sandenibskar (about 5,200 feet)
. – July 20th. The same party set off with the intention of climbing one of the Tinde Fjelde, but had to be satisfied with a new glacier pass, a gap between Skaala and Sandenib, as dense mists enveloped the mountains. Hogrenning led the party admirably over a complex glacier system and brought them to his father’s house, where they were royally entertained with cream porridge, home-brewed ale, and other delicacies.

The Tyve Skar (Robber’s Pass)
(about 6,200 feet)
And The Descent of The Nygaardsbme
. – July 22nd. The same party, with the addition of Mr. Priestman and two porters, made this grand glacier pass from Loen to Justedal and met with great difficulties on the descent, which occupied exactly 12 hours from the top of the snowfield to Faaberg. A glance at the admirable coloured picture of this glacier in Professor Forbes’s “Norway and its Glaciers,” page 267, will hint at difficulties at the bends of this beautiful serpentine glacier.

THE HORUNGTINDER.

The Skagastölsnæbbeskar
(about 7,200 feet). – Aug. 1st. This sporting descent from the ridge between the two northern peaks of the range was taken by Messrs. Baker, Slingsby, and Sundt, with Hogrenning, after a reconnaissance of the V gap on Mellemste Skagastölstind. It consisted of the descent of a narrow and steep arm of the Styggedals glacier, where the bergschrund at the bottom could not be jumped. Hence, loose and difficult rocks at the side had to be negotiated, which occupied 2 hours and 12 minutes – a long time to compass the descent of 40 feet! The big glacier below, entirely snow-free, was very intricate and afforded plenty of practice in snow-craft, the highest branch of the art of mountaineering.

Mellemste Skagastölstind
(about 7,500 feet)
By The North Ridge
: The Passage Of The V Gap. – The last link in the chain which connects the whole group of the Skagastölstinder was forged on August 4th by Messrs. Slingsby and Sundt, with Ole Berge as head smith and Hogrenning as his striker. It was a fine piece of work on the part of Ole, and had on several previous occasions been attempted unsuccessfully, with the inevitable result that it was deemed to be impracticable.

W. C. S.