The Cairngorms

By C. E. E. Riley

In these difficult times when we are enjoined to ” Buy British ” and spend our holidays in Britain, the lover of the mountain and flood might turn his thoughts to this wonderful range of Scottish hills. The rock climber may prefer the Ben Nevis district, but for the humble hill walker there is nothing in Scotland to approach the Cairngorms for their beauty, variety and grandeur ; further, they are the happy hunting ground of the lover of wild nature. Here the lordly golden eagle has his eyrie, the confiding dotterel is encountered on the high tops, the fascinating ptarmigan greets one with his friendly croak and the graceful deer roam the glens in countless herds.

Aviemore, by reason of its situation on the main line of the old Highland Railway, is the most accessible centre, as it is not more than ten hours’ train journey from the majority of the principal towns of Yorkshire.

For many reasons it is advisable to visit the range in the month of June, since the days are long, the weather is usually of the best (though June of 1931 had a sad relapse in this respect), and further, there is no risk of spoiling the activities of the deer-stalking and shooting fraternity, the lairds of the various forests not being amongst those who place their estates under the ” strictly preserved ” ban. The temperature is usually ideal for hill walking, the month is generally free from thunderstorms, also flies are not in the least troublesome.

Several interesting expeditions can be undertaken from Aviemore, notably the walk through the Larig Ghru to Braemar, a long and delightful journey taking one through the heart of the range via the Forest of Rothiemurchus up to the Pools of Dee, which are situated 2,753 feet above sea-level at the summit of the pass. On a memorable day in September, 1921, during a halt for lunch at this spot, three golden eagles gave a wonderful exhibition of aerobatics, and later in the afternoon two were seen harrying ptarmigan on the plateau between Ben Mac Dhui and Cairn Gorm. From the summit of the pass the track follows the course of the Dee, passing the Tailor’s Stone, diverging to the east over the shoulder of Cam Mhaim and joining the Lui Beg, thence past Derry Lodge, and on to the Linn of Dee, where salmon are often seen struggling to leap the falls. From this spot a six miles foot slog along the road brings one to Braemar, but accommodation might be obtained at Inverey, thus saving a very trying four miles at the end of the day.

The return journey may be varied by the Little Larig, which runs through Glen Derry to a crossing of the Avon, from whence Glenmore Lodge may be reached by taking the well-defined track leading over the shoulder of Ben Bynack. From Glenmore to Aviemore is about eight miles along a road of which the first six miles are very indifferent and cannot be recommended for motoring. An alternative route is from Derry Lodge following the course of the Lui Beg to Sron Riach, over the summit of Ben Mac Dhui, and across the plateau with Loch Avon and the Shelter Stone on the right to Cairn Gorm. Magnificent views to the north and the east may be obtained from the summit. The descent should be made to Glenmore Lodge and so to Aviemore.

The peak-bagger will find plenty of material to engage his attention on this range, as according to the late Sir Hugh Munro’s tables, there are no less than 65 tops each of which is 3,000 feet or over. A day might be devoted to Ben Avon which boasts ten of these tops, most of which are adorned with blocks of horizontal slabs of granite which serve to remind one of Almscliff. Beinn a Bhuird is another hill on which a good day may be spent and here, in Garbh Choire, the rock climber will find many opportunities for indulging in his favourite hobby. These two hills should both be ascended from Braemar, but even so, they are difficult of access, as a fair amount of foot slogging is necessary to reach the foot of either hill via Glen Sluggan.

Cairn Toul and Braeriach also deserve attention. From Aviemore take the road up Glen Einich to the bothy at the foot of Loch Einich, follow the track leading up through Coire Dhondail, thence strike due east to Cairn Toul, and the summit of Braeriach may be reached via the Angel’s Peak and the Wells of Dee skirting the top of Garbh Choire to the snowbed which has not been known to disappear even in the hottest summers—this is a likely place to find cairngorm stones. From the summit of Braeriach descend to Glen Einich, joining the road at the first bothy. Caution : the road up Glen Einich is now closed to motors except for the first three miles from Coylum Bridge.

Another interesting day may be obtained by motoring up Glen Feshie as far as Achleum, whence a good stalking path leads up to Cam Ban Mor and the plateau of Moine Mhor. Here is a delightful expanse of wonderful springy turf on which it would be possible for the horseman to gallop for miles ; the vegetation affords good grazing of which the deer from the neighbouring forests are not slow to take advantage, and rare is the day in the summer on which a huge herd is not encountered. The return to Aviemore should be made along the ridge over the top of Sgoran Dubh, descending thence to Glen Einich. Fine views to the west are to be had during this walk, especially of the hills between Loch Ericht and Loch Laggan, and if visibility is good, Ben Nevis and Ben Cruachan are easily spotted.

It is advisable when contemplating a holiday in the High­lands to avoid, if possible, the period from the 12th August to the 15th October, but the following are right of way-paths :—The Larig Ghru, the Little Laiig, the ascent of Cairn Gorm from Glen More Lodge and the ascent of Ben Mac Dhui via Glen Derry and Loch Etchachan. The circuitous approach to Glen Sluggan from Braemar, across the Bridge of Dee to Invercauld House, may be avoided by walking down to the Dee from Braemar along the track to Inverchandlich, and, by the exercise of a little tact, the stalker might be induced to assist in the crossing of the river.

The writer has bagged the 65 Munro tops and they have all been ascended during the months of June and July. On no occasion was any difficulty experienced in obtaining permission to walk on the high ground and the stalkers, without exception, were pleased to help in every possible way.

The Scottish Mountaineering Club have published an excellent guide to the Cairngorms, copies of which may be obtained from Messrs. Douglas and Foulis, 9, Castle Street, Edinburgh. The best map is the Ordnance Survey of the Cairngorms, which is a combination of four portions of the ordinary one inch sheets.