Brimham Rocks — An Interim Guide
by D. McKelvie
Brimham Rocks lie approximately one mile South of the Pateley Bridge — Ripon road (B 6265) and about three miles East of Pateley Bridge itself.
The best approach from Leeds and Bradford is probably via the Otley — Pateley Bridge road (B 6451) as far as Summerbridge, at which place the valley road is left and a steeply ascending and narrow road on the right, leading up to Brimham Moor, taken. A crossroads is passed and after about two miles signposts and a battered wooden kiosk may be seen on the left of the road. Cars may be parked here or further along the track going past the kiosk to Brimham House. The Rocks may also be approached from Ripley (B 6165), again turning right at Summerbridge or from Ripon (B6265) turning left at the finger post 3 ½ miles east of Pateley.
The best map for the area is undoubtedly the 25″ O.S. plan (Yorks. (W.R.) CXXXVI. 6). The rocks have long been famous as a geological curiosity, but their history as a climbing ground dates from much more recent times. The general standard of the climbs is high; a large proportion of the routes being severe or more so. The accepted grading is adhered to, but, since many of the climbs here have been done only a few times, the grades must be taken as provisional ones only.
The rocks are scattered over an area of some 60 acres, but the climbs are mainly concentrated in two areas. For the purposes of this article I have named the first of these the Escarpment. It is a broken line of cliffs and rocks about 1,000 yards long, running in a great curve approximately North to South. The other area lies East of the escarpment and South of Brimham House, which itself lies roughly in the middle of the area and makes a good rendezvous for parties. Scattered about the whole area are numerous other rocks and groups of rocks, many of which may be climbed by one or more routes. This article deals only with the main routes and such of the boulders as are well known however, since to catalogue all the routes on all the boulders of Brimham would take a climbing lifetime.
The newer climbs at Brimham have been made mainly by a very active group of Yorkshire Mountaineering Club members. They have not only pioneered, between them, most of the climbs, but to them, and in particular R.B. Evans, I owe the greater part of the material making up this interim guide, since my own part has been merely that of assembling and cataloguing the information provided by the group. Groups from the East Yorkshire Mountaineering Club and the R.A.F. Mountain Rescue Team, Topcliffe, have also been active at the rocks during recent years.
The rocks are of gritstone, similar in texture and formation to those of Almscliffe, but, away from the escarpment, weathered into their well-known fantastic shapes. The area is perhaps more exciting and less frequented than Almscliffe, not least because it is haunted by a custodian whose over-riding purpose in life it is to pursue climbers or cataloguers with frightening assiduity until, at bay, they buy him off with silver. However there is less broken glass than at Almscliffe and climbers of the quality of the writer may fall off in decent privacy and comparative safety.
Climbs On The Escarpment
The climbs on the Escarpment are steep and uncompromising. There is plenty of variety, ranging from chimneys to walls, slabs and cracks.
For the sake of simplicity the Escarpment is taken as being in two sections. The first begins just North of the High Wood farm gateway west of the derelict kiosk, and extends as far as the path which bisects the escarpment and leads deviously to Brimham House. This section is mainly broken rocks, and contains only one good climb — Notice Board Crack at its extreme northerly end. Good scrambling may be had however, and there is a moderate but energetic chimney half way along it. Cubic Block is within this area but is not actually part of the escarpment.
The second section extends from the bisecting path in a generally north-westerly direction but bends, dog’s leg fashion, halfway along, finally to run north-east. Cracked Buttress, Lovers’ Leap and the Hatter’s Groove groups of climbs are all in this second section.
The climbs are described beginning at Notice Board Crack which, though lying south of the path, belongs in spirit and quality with those on the north of the path. Thus the routes are described from right to left of each succeeding buttress as the climber faces
1.—Notice Board Crack. 30 ft. V.S.
This climb lies on the wall just south of the path bisecting the escarpment. Climb a narrow crack to the right of a weather worn notice board. The middle section is the hardest part.
Cracked Buttress
2. — Right-Hand Crack. 40 ft. S.
An obvious crack. Mostly by layback moves.
3. — Central Crack. 40ft. S.
Up a groove, then step right onto the face. Layback up the crack to a small ledge. The 10 ft. crack has not yet been led.
4. — Parallel Crack. 35 ft. V.S.
Left of Central Crack. Climb the cracks on good holds to a ledge. From here the left hand crack is taken until just below the top, where a delicate step into the right crack enables the top to be reached by jamming. The hardest route on the buttress.
The Escarpment Lovers’ Leap Area
These climbs lie on the very prominent buttress split by a great arched chimney.
5. — Lichen Slab. 25 ft. V.D.
This short slab climb lies on a boulder at the foot of the right hand end of this buttress. It gives a short, delicate, right trending climb.
6. — President’s Progress. 30 ft. V.D.
On the buttress proper, between Lichen Slab, and the Nameless Chimney. Begins at a recess above a sandy platform. Has a difficult start by a semi-layback move or bridging to a ledge with a rotten holly tree. Go left over the chock stone via a high hold.
7. — Nameless Chimney. 35 ft. V.D. perhaps severe.
The wide chimney narrowing to a crack lying between Lovers’ Leap Chimney and President’s Progress.
8. — Lovers’ Leap Chimney. 50 ft. Difficult.
The popular chimney. A pleasant climb.
Start up a steep crack on the left wall then traverse right on to the chock stone and the floor of the cave. Go to the back of the cave and climb the chimney.
9. — Birch Tree Wall. 50 ft. V.S.
A very good climb. It lies on the face left of the chimney. Climb the wall for 10 feet to a small ledge. About 10 feet higher another ledge is reached. A very delicate left traverse and mantelshelf lead to a corner at the top of which is a tiny tree. Above the corner an easy scoop leads to the top.
10.—Birch Tree Wall Variant. Severe.
Avoid the hardest part of the Wall by reaching the groove from the left along an obvious ledge.
11. — Difficult Crack. 20 ft. Difficult.
Lies left of and higher than Birch Tree Wall. Eight feet of semi layback climbing are followed by a left trending move round a chock stone.
The Escarpment North West Section
Going from Lovers’ Leap along the line of crags a small crag is passed, then a larger crag is reached at the right end of which is an overhanging V groove.
12. — Hatter’s Groove. 40 ft. V.S.
A very fine and serious route. Looks magnificent from its foot. The overhanging V groove to the right of Slippery Crack is ascended facing right until above a piton runner and below the first overhang. Swing to a layback facing left onto a stance just below the huge final overhang. A good thread belay is awkward to fix here. The leader sits in slings on the belay to serve as foothold for the second to overcome the overhang on its left side.
13. — Slippery Crack. 40 ft. S.
Lies on the wall left of Hatter’s Groove. Needs cleaning. Mainly climbed by layback moves and jamming.
To the left of Slippery Crack is a square recess, reached by scrambling up to a level pulpit.
14. — Graft Crack. 20 ft. S.
The right hand corner crack of the recess is climbed by layback.
15. — Brief Crack. 30 ft. Hard Severe.
To the left of Graft Crack. The corner crack is climbed to a good ledge just below the top. Traverse right to the top of Graft Crack. The finishing crack has been climbed on a rope.
To the left of the recess and starting at a slightly lower level is a prominent steep crack. This is —
16. — Last Crack. 30 ft. S.
Climb the first part by layback and finish by jamming.
17. — Duggie’s Dilemma. 25 ft. Severe.
This climb is 30 yards right of Slippery Crack, on the small crag which is passed on the way to Hatter’s Groove. At the right hand end of the crag is a steep wall which is climbed. The hardest part is a mantelshelf halfway.
Some yards to the left of the buttress on which the above climbs lie is a line of buttresses and slabs, fairly easily identified by three trees growing at their foot about half way along. On the extreme right hand buttress, partly hidden by boulders and starting in a cave formed by a boulder leaning against the wall is —
18. — Corner Crack. 30 ft. V.D.
This is climbed to a small overhang which is climbed by layback moves.
On a buttress some yards to the left is —
19. — Mantel Shelf. 25 ft. V.D.
Starts from a sloping boulder. Step onto the right side of the wall. A mantel shelf is followed by a long reach to the top.
Left of the trees a large block rests against the main edge. At the foot of the block is a stone wall. Here is —
20. — Pig Traverse. 40 ft. V.D.
Easily identified by the name scratched at the start. Start at the wall and climb up to the overhang. Step right onto the wall and traverse horizontally to the edge of the buttress. Finish up the arete.
To the left of Pig Traverse is a long slab with a route up the left hand side.
21. — Fag Slab. 30 ft. S.
A groove is climbed for about 12 feet where more delicate climbing leads to the top. This climb needs cleaning.
22. — Fag Slab Variation. 30 ft. S.
Harder than Fag Slab itself. The final section of Fag Slab is reached by awkward layback moves on the slab to the right of the usual route.
Round the corner is a steep slabby wall with an overhanging flake running up it. This has now been climbed without a piton.
23. — Allan’s Crack. 40 ft. Hard Severe.
Layback up the flake until below the overhang. Lean almost horizontally until an undergrip flake can be reached. An awkward move left is followed by a layback up to the second overhang. Step to the right and climb the wall above.
Beyond this point there is little of climbing interest.
Hawk Crag And Cannon Rocks
This is the other main climbing area. It lies South of Brimham House between the edge of the Escarpment and the road leading to Brimham House. It consists of an area of large and scattered boulders, but although scrambles of all grades of difficulty may be had the best climbing is on Hawk Crag and Cannon Rocks.
Hawk Crag lies near the roadside at the last bend before it reaches Brimham House, and faces about South-East. On it are, from right to left, Cakewalk, Jabberwalk and Desperation Crack. There are all good climbs.
24. — Cakewalk. 40 ft. Severe.
On the buttress to the right of Jabberwalk. A 20 foot vertical wall, containing a crack which peters out, is climbed to a good thread runner. Step up and traverse right along a good ledge to a large platform on the corner of the buttress. There is a 10 foot wall above.
25. — Jabberwalk. 40 ft. Severe.
Start at a steep wall below a large overhang which is split by a chimney crack. The wall is climbed on good fingerholds to the overhang. A short traverse to the right brings the chimney within reach. Wriggle to the top.
26. — Jabberwalk Variation. 40 ft. V.S.
Starts well to the right of the usual start. A short wall is followed by delicate climbing on a steep slab, with a thin crack providing aid for the right hand, until a traverse brings the easy chimney of Jabberwalk within reach.
27. — Deperation Crack. 40 ft. V.S.
A fine crack left of Jabberwalk. After a strenuous start on good holds the crack becomes very rounded but yields to jamming. The last few feet are the most difficult part of the climb.
About half way from the kiosk to Brimham House a huge boulder with a hole through it near the top is seen, together with several others, on the West side of the road. These are the Cannon Rocks.
28. — Maloja. 30 ft. Severe.
Starts almost directly below the hole through the rock. Up to a broad ledge, then a layback move and a delicate step back to the left is followed by an easy finish.
29. — Frensis. 30 ft. V.S.
The steep crack to the right of Maloja. The initial crack is ascended on good holds and the twin cracks climbed until below the overhang, at which point an escape is made to the Right. The continuation of the crack proper has been top-roped.
Climbs On Stelling Crag (Cubic Block)
From the derelict wooden kiosk standing at the beginning of the road leading to Brimham House a track leads west through a gateway and eventually to High Wood Farm. By going through the gateway and then turning north along the line of small crags which form the beginning of the Escarpment one arrives in some 150 yards at a huge boulder easily identified by its slabby eastern side and acutely overhanging western side. On the 25″ plan this is marked as Stelling Crag but it is generally known as the Cubic Block. On the east side are four good routes. They are described from North to South.
30. — Cubic Corner. 35 ft. S.
Up the right hand edge of the arete, the hardest move being near the top.
31. — A Route. 36 ft. S.
Starts a few feet left along the face. Climb, trending to the right.
32. — B Route. 35 ft. S.
A short delicate wall left of A Route to a dirty mantelshelf. Traverse a few feet to the right then climb upwards to the left.
33. — C Route. 30 ft. V.D.
The well scratched route up the left corner of the block. On the rock mass facing these climbs is a low 20 foot traverse ending in a high step upwards and to the right. Moderate.
Boulders
There are so many boulders of all shapes and sizes that only a few of the best known ones are here mentioned. North of Brimham House on the right of the path leading along the escarpment are the Dancing Bear, the Druid’s Idol and the Indian’s Turban.
34. — The Dancing Bear gives a moderate to difficult climb according to individual fancy.
35. — The Druid’s Idol, a great boulder balanced on a ridiculously small pivot, has several easy or moderate ways to the top, despite its appearance. Nearby is the Indian’s Turban. A difficult chimney crack separating two pinnacles may be climbed.
36. — Indian’s Turban-West. V.D.
Start halfway along the face. Go up to ledge then move right, up to a mantelshelf near the top.
Numerous other scrambles may be designed in this area. Just South of Brimham House, near the car parking point, are the —
37. — Turtle Rocks. 30 ft. D. or V.D.
Begin on the left in the deep chimney cleft and gain the ledge beneath the top block. Here is a magnificent natural thread belay. Move right and ascend the top block.
Bat Buttress
Marked on the 25″ plan and the 1″ O.S. Map is Maud’s Farm, about three-quarters of a mile south of Brimham House. Just east of this is a high buttress. There are two climbs.
38. — Bat Buttress. 70 ft. Difficult.
The easiest route up the main buttress. Begin at a slab on the left corner, then go up the corner until stopped by the overhanging nose. Traverse right. Climb a crack followed by slabs to the top.
On a wall to the left of the main buttress is the second climb. The name is scratched on the rock.
39. — Yo-Yo. Very Difficult.
Start at the left hand corner. A traverse to the right is followed by a mantelshelf.