Equipment
by W. J. Anderson
Except for a few items purchased in Katmandu and clothing worn by the British members on the journey out, the Expedition’s equipment was packed in 15 wooden boxes and 14 kit bags plus our own rucksacks; the total weight, including packing was 18 cwt.
The hst attached to this report does not include food, medical supplies, or scientific and photographic equipment which are dealt with elsewhere. It may prove useful to a party organising a similar expedition, but must necessarily be ‘ tailor made ‘ to suit the particular programme of such an expedition and its financial resources.
Much valuable help was available to us in the early planning stages both from information published by previous expeditions and from personal discussions and correspondence with other Himalayan climbers. In particular we are greatly indebted to Charles Evans and Dennis Davies for the patient and unstinting help and guidance given by them. Both men busy with their own plans might well have found it impossible to spare the time to deal with our many and often naive questions.
There is, however, no substitute for first hand experience; and in the light of ours the hst could have been curtailed in many respects without prejudice to the success of the Expedition. In saying this I am conscious that our programme was far short of being completed and that had the ” Big White Peak ” been climbed, our resources would have been drawn on more fully and certain items of equipment might have proved inadequate as to type, quantity or quality. The following comments are therefore intended to interpret this list in the hght of our own experience and to assess the usefulness of the individual items when measured against the full Expedition programme.
Section A: Mountaineering
Whilst not all the ropes were used, in particular the thinner nylon lines, it is almost certain that they would all have been brought into service had we gone higher on the “Big White Peak.” The amount of rope needed when fixed ropes are likely to be required must not be underestimated. A shortage of rope at such times could lead to unnecessary risks being taken. As it was a good deal of rope was immediately swallowed up on the big couloir approaching Camp I, and on the rock pitch behind Camp I. Apart from their use as waist lines we had not much use for spliced slings. It is generally preferable to make knotted loops from cut lengths as required.
The heavy tubular ice pitons were made from steel electrical conduit tube. They were used in earth on the traverse into the first couloir. Here their length was essential. They would probably have been even more useful higher on the mountain. I would have taken more such pitons though our supply of rock pitons would probably have been adequate. An additional piton hammer should have been taken.
Ex W.D. karabiners are quite satisfactory for attaching fixed ropes to pitons.
The marker flags were actually khaki handkerchiefs. We were able to collect suitable sticks below Base Camp. These flags showed up quite well though an orange colour and larger size would have been better. There is no point in being short of markers.
Four spare ice-axes of good quality would have been sufficient. As it was, due to the antique nature of ours and the breakage of two ‘good ‘ ones, the surplus was barely adequate.
B. Camp Equipment
1. Tents
The Base Camp tents were quite satisfactory. The Sherpas liked their communal tent. We appreciated the extra room of the ‘ Bungalow’ tent which we (the Sahibs) used as a dining room/lounge. The poles of this tent were not sufficient to withstand the weight of two inches of snow on the canvas. The comfort of a bigger tent at Base Camp is not to be underestimated and it is essential that the whole party should be able to foregather as required. An even roomier ‘ dining shelter’ was constructed later. This was built with three sides open and roofed with a flysheet. It was a great success — though draughty — and well worth the trouble of making. Expedition boxes were used as tables and chairs. Three men slept in the ‘ bungalow’ and the other three ‘ sahibs’ with Murari slept in two two-man tents.
Sleeping partners were changed frequently and no particular aversions were evidenced.
The Black’s standard mountain tent with sleeve entrance was modified in line with our requirements. The main changes were the fitting of nylon guys attached by leather tabs to the tent fabric; groundsheet was extended six inches up the side walls and canvas pockets were provided along the walls. We did not experience severe enough conditions really to test these tents but I feel sure they would have been quite satisfactory under the conditions we were likely to meet. The flysheets were not used above base camp and were not really needed at all. The two main criticisms of these tents were the difficulty of erection and their weight. The latter is probably inevitable in a tent of this size and strength but there are too many guys and the many sectioned poles are an abomination. There would be a considerable risk of losing a section in an exposed situation and the colour coding system of identifying mating sections was very frustrating in trying conditions and not foolproof (as our Sherpas proved) even under ideal conditions. The conventional steel pegs provided are useless in snow. We had flat wooden ones made in Katmandu, which were fairly satisfactory though tending to split if driven into hard snow. Guys had to be reversed so that the adjustment was made from the tent and tent manufacturers do not seem to appreciate that once a peg is buried or frozen in no adjustment of the guy round that peg can be made. We found the tents sufficiently roomy for two but I suspect the Sherpas found conditions a httle crowded when cooking.
The ex-American Army bivouac tent was old and unserviceable for severe conditions. In design and for ease of erection and lightness (Nylon material) it surpassed the Black’s tents. It was smaller than the Black’s tents but I think two tents similar to this would have been valuable for the higher and final camps had we climbed the Big White Peak.
The tarpaulin type sheets made by the R.F.D. company to our specification were extremely useful for sheltering porters and gear as occasion demanded. One was used at Base Camp in the construction of the cookhouse. A bigger size might have been an improvement.
Summarising: Our tents were good and suitable for the uses to which we put them. However, we might have found the Black’s mountain tents annoying to carry and erect at higher altitudes.
2. Kitchen
The primuses were good and reliable and stood up to rough usage. We did have occasional trouble due to manhandling by the Sherpas who have no mechanical aptitude. One experience which could have had more serious consequences pointed a moral. One morning at Camp III the Sherpas could not light the stove We didn’t get to know of this until they had manhandled the burner, stripping the thread. I looked for the spares box in order to fit a new burner. The spares box was for the one pint stove. We were using the two pint! As a result we were without a proper drink for 24 hours. Although the two pint stoves with self cleaning jets were a wonderful job, the simpler and smaller stoves were quite adequate since we only used them when away from Base Camp. Had we gone higher on the mountain we would have been better off with a total of five one pint stoves all of the same model. Solid fuel ‘ tommy’ cookers would have been useful for emergency use. The meta fuel was quite satisfactory and glucose tablets a poor substitute as Lakpa Tserring discovered.
Certain items of kitchen equipment we could have managed without. The pressure cookers could have been used to better advantage at Base Camp — they were never taken higher. The thermos containers proved their greatest value in providing cool drinks on the return journey to Calcutta. The crockery was excellent. Small mixers or shakers for the powdered milk would have been well worth while.
3. General
Not all the paraffin was required as we cooked on a wood fire at Base Camp. It would however have been unwise to take much less and risk a shortage. Half gallon or one gallon polythene bottles would have been useful for carrying paraffin to the higher camps and for holding stocks of it there.
The light alloy pack frame was a great success. We could have used more.
Two-pint polythene jars or bottles were used as water bottles. ‘Alpine’ starts were not fashionable but the ‘glacier’ lanterns were very useful in the tents and were hghter to carry than torches.
The staple nylon banding made good laces for boots and overboots.
The spring balance was well worth its weight ! Other items need no comment. We used them all as occasion demanded except the Lindane tablets.
C. Office
In view of the lists required by the customs authorities, and for official letters, a typewriter was essential. Our model withstood the rigours of the journey well although a true portable, as against a transportable model, might have been robust enough.
Duphcate books for diaries were ideal, more should have been taken. It would be a good idea to have a thin plate to insert below the page being written on as the books were paper backed. The small pocket notebooks were good for odd notes and photographic diaries made on the spot, to be re-written at leisure. The loose leaf books were inconvenient in use and unnecessary.
The ball pens and pencils taken worked admirably and there was no need for conventional pens and ink. Ordinary lead pencils were needed for the survey.
Stationery was in excess of requirements but was not bulky or unduly heavy.
The post bags were a good idea and would have been put to more use had the Expedition programme been completed and a runner employed on regular journeys between Base Camp and Katmandu.
D. Amusements
We did not use either playing cards or dice, though the Sherpas had their own game played with dice. Reading was our main spare time activity. We had all selected rather solid reading to take with us and regretted not having included more light matter.
E. Personal Gear (British Members)
Most of us had light weight ‘ Grivel’ Crampons and found them very good. The ‘ Bally ‘ boots were quite satisfactory but the metal hook fasteners were weak and many broke off which made the unpleasant job of getting into frozen boots even more tiresome. Unless such hooks are absolutely rehable one is better off with the conventional eyelet.
The canvas overboots were useful but not essential up to Camp IV. I am quite sure that we would have found them a real blessing higher up the mountain.
The ‘stop tou’ snow gaiter was most satisfactory as were our ‘ Wyncol’ chmbing suits which proved very warm, reasonably waterproof with good wear but poor tear resistance and yet light in weight. By virtue of the nylon lining they were easy to put on and take off, an attribute not to be underestimated when living in small tents.
Ideas on the best materials for socks and stockings varied. Several of us found loosly knitted harris wool perfect. We were all dehghted with the superb woollen sweaters and gloves which were specially knitted for us.
The track suits were a good idea. The trousers were of great value for wear beneath windproofs. The zip ankle fastening was good but a fly would have been useful.
The basketball boots were absolutely ideal on the approach march, i.e., on dry ground and around Base Camp. They are of course treacherous in wet conditions.
We mostly had ‘ Edgingtons ‘ double bags. The difference in quality between the ‘ Himalayan ‘ and the ‘ Everest’ type is very apparent, the latter being much superior all round. The problem is of course two bags or one. It is likely that we would have found the Edgingtons ‘ Himalayan’ bags inadequately warm at higher altitudes and the two bags were certainly not as warm as a single bag of superior quality (a Black’s’ Polar ‘ which one of our members had taken) even though their combined weight was greater. For the uses to which we put them, however, our bags proved quite satisfactory and the convenience of a single bag for use at Base Camp and below was appreciated.
Our ‘ Duvet’ jackets were of superb quality—rather too good for our needs and a httle too bulky but a great comfort in camp. We might have come to consider them almost essential for climbing higher on the mountain. The comfort of these jackets, once experienced, is not easy to forgo. A short, waist length inner sleeping bag of the same quality used in conjunction with an outer bag would solve the two bag problem and reduce the equipment required. The water repellent covers for sleeping bags were useful but it is questionable where one needs such a cover most on the bag or on the air bed? Our ‘Sea Esta’ beds were perfect but became quite wet on occasion. We preferred lung power to the pumps provided. For lightness the shorter bed is a worthwhile economy.
Of the other items taken, the specially made waterproof capes were very good though the waterproofing was not an unqualified success. Wrist watches, rubber torches and many items of clothing were provided by the generosity of manufacturers and we had nothing but praise for these items. Our golf umbrellas were of great value as sunshades.
F. Equipment provided for Sherpas
Little comment is needed on the equipment provided for our Sherpas. Boot sizes were a problem to decide on in England but Sherpa feet fortunately seem to be very accommodating. We had expected the loan of crampons in India and had great difficulty in making do with the ancient and rusty pairs we had brought from England.
Otherwise our Sherpas were superbly equipped—probably beyond the standard that was really necessary.
It seems high time that a definite understanding was arrived at regarding the equipment (if any) that an expedition should provide for its Sherpas. All of our men had been on previous expeditions but arrived in Katmandu only with the clothing they stood up in expecting to be fully kitted out. Much of the equipment, still in good condition after the expedition, is sold or exchanged by the Sherpas on their return.
List Of Equipment Taken On Expedition
| Quantity | |
|---|---|
| A. Mountaineering | |
| Nylon Ropes 1¼ ins. X 120 ft | 9 |
| 7/8 ins. X 200 ft | 3 |
| 7/8 ins. x 150 ft | 1 |
| 7/8 ins. x 120 ft | 1 |
| 5/8 ins. x 250 ft | 1 |
| 5/8 ins. x 200 ft | 1 |
| Hemp Rope 1¼ ins. x 150 ft | 1 |
| Nylon Slings 1¼ ins. x 3 ft. circ | 6 |
| 7/8 ins. x 6 ft. circ. | 2 |
| Tubular Steel ice pitons (up to 15 ins. long) | 12 |
| Flat steel ice pitons 8 ins. | 8 |
| Do. 4 ins. | 6 |
| Rock pitons (various) | 12 |
| Karabiners— | |
| Stubai ‘ D ‘ type | 3 |
| Stubai oval | 10 |
| Ex-W.D | 22 |
| Marker Flags | 50 |
| Spare Ice-axes | 4 |
| B. Camp Equipment | |
| 1. Tents | |
| 6 man Bell tent for Sherpas | 1 |
| ‘Bungalow’ tent with flysheet and groundsheet | 1 |
| ‘Good Companions’ tent | 1 |
| Black’s (special) Mountain Tent with sleeve entrance | 6 |
| Flysheets for above | 6 |
| Black’s mountain tent with normal entrance | 1 |
| Ex-American Army Bivouac tent | 1 |
| Tarpaulin type sheets 10 ft. x 10 ft. (PVC material) | 2 |
| 2. Kitchen | |
| 2 pint primus with self cleaning jets | 2 |
| Spares for above | 1 box |
| 1 pint standard primus | 2 |
| Spares for above | 1 box |
| ‘Meta’ fuel | 14 packets |
| Matches | 132 boxes |
| Large aluminium cooking pot (local purchase) | 1 |
| 2½gallon cooking pot | 1 |
| Set of Billies | 2 |
| ‘Black’s’ trio canteen | 3 |
| Pressure cookers | 3 |
| Frying pan | 1 |
| Large teapot | 1 |
| Whistling kettle | 1 |
| Pot lifters | 12 |
| Cloth bags for cooking pots, etc. | as required |
| Large Thermos containers | 2 |
| Tea infusers (large) | 2 |
| Tea infusers (small) | 2 |
| Tea strainers | 2 |
| Mixing bowls | 2 |
| Measuring jugs 2 pint | 2 |
| Kitchen strainers | 2 |
| Kitchen scoops | 2 |
| Measuring spoons | 2 sets |
| Large measuring spoon | 2 |
| Spirit measure | 1 |
| Large strainer spoon | 1 |
| Large fork | 1 |
| Soup ladle | 1 |
| Spatula | 1 |
| Egg whisk | 1 |
| Potato peelers | 3 |
| Tin openers | 6 |
| Meat knife | 1 |
| Soup plates in ‘ Bex ‘ ware | 26 |
| Drinking mugs in ‘ Bex ‘ ware | 14 |
| Polythene bucket | 1 |
| Canvas water bucket | 2 |
| Inflatable water bucket | 1 |
| Floor cloths | 12 |
| Dish cloths | 12 |
| Nylon pan scourers | 24 |
| Vim | 12 tins |
| Kitchen soap | 32 bars |
| Tea towels | 12 |
| Cloth bags for food | 30 |
| Muslin | 12 yards |
| 3. General | |
| Everest carrying frames | 3 |
| ‘Yukon’ type pack frame in light alloy | 1 |
| Spring balance (to weigh up to 100 lbs.) | 1 |
| Paraffin in 4½ gallon jerrycans (local purchase) | 5 cans |
| Polythene containers for paraffin 2 gallon | 3 |
| Tins for paraffin 2 pint size | 3 |
| Small ‘storm’ lanterns (local purchase) | 3 |
| Small collapsible duminium candle lanterns | 6 |
| Candles for above | 108 |
| Electric torches complete | 6 |
| Spare batteries for above | 48 |
| Spare bulbs for above | 25 |
| Polythene bottles 2 pint | 21 |
| Do. 1 pint | 3 |
| Do. ½ pint | 6 |
| Polythene jars 2 pint | 2 |
| Polythene bags — assorted sizes | 24 |
| Alloy containers — screw top — assorted sizes | 24 |
| Sisal cord | 3 balls |
| Hemp cord | 1 ball |
| Twine | 2 balls |
| Garden lines 30 yards | 2 |
| 5/8 ins. lamp wick | 1 roll |
| Ajax staple nylon banding | 1 lb. |
| Nylon braided cord | 1 lb. |
| Nylon boot laces | 24 pairs |
| Waxed boot laces | 36 pairs |
| Large sheets brown paper | 6 |
| Sellotape in tins | 4 rolls |
| ‘Calotherm’ anti mist cloths | 6 |
| Do. do. bottles | 3 |
| Water sterilising tablets | 12 boxes |
| Lindane (DDT) tablets | 4 tubes |
| Disinfectant | 7 lb. tin |
| Toilet rolls | 24 |
| Toilet soap | 24 tablets |
| Alarm clocks | 2 |
| Travelling mirror | 1 |
| 4. Tool Kit | |
| 2 lb. axe in cloth bag | 1 |
| Matchet in leather case | 1 |
| Small hacksaw | 1 |
| Blades for above | 6 |
| Carborundum stone | 1 |
| Screwdriver with assorted blades | 1 set |
| Pincers | 1 pair |
| Assorted nails and screws | 1 tin |
| Rubber solution | 1 tin |
| ‘Copydex’ | 2 bottles |
| ‘Bostick’ | 1 tube |
| Black paint (for lettering boxes, etc.) | ½ pint |
| Brushes for paint | 3 |
| Windproof cloth | 1 piece |
| Tent repair outfits | 2 |
| C. Office Equipment | |
| Typewriter and spare ribbon | 1 |
| Typing carbon—(quarto size) | 3 packets |
| Typing paper quarto size | 500 sheets |
| Headed notepaper | 150 sheets |
| Plain notepaper | 150 sheets |
| Airmail paper | 200 sheets |
| Manilla envelopes foolscap size | 150 |
| Envelopes 5½ ins. x 3½ ins. | 150 |
| Log Book | 1 |
| Duplicate notebooks for diaries | 6 |
| Pocket notebooks and pencils | 12 |
| Pencils | 12 |
| ‘Scroll’ liquid lead pencils and refills | 12 |
| ‘Biro’ pens and refills | 12 |
| Loose leaf notebooks (with refills) | 6 |
| Pencil erasers | 2 |
| Typewriter erasers | 2 |
| Penholders | 3 |
| Nibs | 12 |
| Ink in plastic bottle | 1 |
| Assorted rubber bands | 1 box |
| Sealing wax | 6 sticks |
| Post bags | 3 |
| Above items packed in special box | |
| D. Amusements | |
| Playing cards | 3 packs |
| Dice | 6 |
| ‘Penguin’ books | 29 |
| Tibetan English dictionary | 1 |
| Pocket English dictionary | 1 |
| E. Personal Gear Per Man (British Members) | |
| Waist line and karabiner | 1 |
| Whistle and compass | 1 |
| Ice axe | 1 |
| Crampons | 1 pair |
| Rubber soled cumbing boots | 1 pair |
| Nylon mesh insoles | 1 pair |
| Canvas overboots | 1 pair |
| Snow gaiters or ‘ Snow Tous’ | 1 pair |
| Snow goggles | 1 pair |
| String vests | 2 |
| Wool shirts | 2 |
| Wool socks | 4 pairs |
| Wool stockings | 2 pairs |
| Heavy sweater | 1 |
| Light sweater | 2 |
| Balaclava | 1 |
| Wool scarf or comforter | 1 |
| Silk square | 1 |
| Wool mitts | 2 pair |
| Fingerless mitts | 1 pair |
| Celanese inner gloves | 1 pair |
| Windproof gauntlets | 1 pair |
| ‘Wyncol’ climbing suit | 1 |
| Hat | 1 |
| Track suit tunic | 1 |
| Track suit trousers | 1 pair |
| Swimming trunks | 1 pair |
| Basketball boots | 1 pair |
| Shorts | 1 pair |
| Climbing breeches or trousers | 1 pair |
| Sleeping bag outer | 1 |
| Sleeping bag inner | 1 |
| Inner sheet lining | 1 |
| Water repellent outer cover | 1 |
| Down filled ‘Duvet’ jacket | 1 |
| Air mattress | 1 |
| Pump for above | 1 |
| Rubber covered torch | 1 |
| Pocket knife | 1 |
| Knife, fork and spoon | 1 set |
| Housewife | 1 |
| Pocket can opener (Jiffy) | 1 |
| Wrist watch | 1 |
| Waterproof cape | 1 |
| Golf Umbrella | 1 |
| Mosquito net | 1 |
| Small rucksack | 1 |
| Cotton shirt | 2 |
| Underpants | 4 pair |
| Pyjamas | 1 pair |
| Handkerchiefs | 6 |
| Light coat and trousers | 1 |
| Light shoes | 1 pair |
| Light socks | 2 pair |
| Tie | 1 |
| Toilet necessaries | 1 set |
| Towel | 1 |
| Smoking equipment and other purely personal belongings | |
| All above packed in one wooden ‘ Personal’ box and ‘Bergen’ rucksack excepting clothing worn or carried whilst travelling. | |
| F. Equipment provided for Nepalese Members | |
| 1. Equipment for each Sherpa | |
| Kit Bag with rucksack straps | 1 |
| Waist line and Karabiner | 1 |
| Ice axe | 1 |
| Crampons | 1 pair |
| Rubber soled climbing boots (size 6 or 7) | 1 pair |
| Canvas overboots | 1 pair |
| Snow goggles (ex-W.D.) | 1 pair |
| Clasp knife | 1 |
| Windproof trousers and braces | 1 pair |
| Windproof anorak | 1 |
| Windproof gauntlets | 1 pair |
| Balaclava | 1 |
| The following items were issued to the Liaison Officer also :— | |
| Basketball boots | 1 pair |
| Wool or string vest | 1 |
| Long wool underpants | 1 pair |
| Track suit (tunic and trousers) | 1 |
| Wool shirt | 1 |
| Wool socks | 2 pairs |
| Heavy sweater | 1 |
| Wool mitts | 1 pair |
| Sleeping bag inner | 1 |
| Sleeping bag outer | 1 |
| Waterproof outer cover (actually a water repellent gabardine) | 1 |
| Air mattress | 1 |
| 2. Other Items | |
| Spare boots (for porters, etc.) | 2 pairs |
| Spare snow goggles | 7 pairs |
| Woollen blankets | 6 |