Some Climbs On Limestone In The Clapham Area

by J. Richards

Free climbing on the limestone outcrops has been a recognised part of the climbing scene for the past few years. It all started rather earlier when English climbers, anxious to practise their technique in preparation for artificial climbs on the Continent, realised that they could drive their pitons into the limestone without being accused of desecrating the crags of a classical climbing area. They quickly discovered that these steep, overhanging walls yielded first class artificial routes and that, more surprisingly, free climbing of a high order was also possible. It had hitherto been assumed that limestone was unreliable, as indeed much of it is, but in certain areas the rock is reasonably sound.

Exploration continued and the number of routes multiplied. The standard is very high; New Climbs—West Yorkshire Area by J. A. Austin, published about two years ago by the Yorkshire Mountaineering Club, lists forty-four new climbs on limestone of which thirty-nine are ‘Very Severe’ and the remaining five’Severe’. This state of affairs may be admirable for the tiger but is apt to discourage the climber who expects to find holds on his ‘Very Difficults’, and who likes his ‘Severes’ mild, from investigating those steep little grey crags in the Yorkshire Dales.

There are in fact within easy reach of Lowstern several climbs of a non-terrifying nature, on pleasantly sound limestone. In describing the rock as sound it does not follow that there are absolutely no loose holds, but you certainly will not bring the whole crag cascading about your ears in the form of five-hundredweight blocks. All doubtful looking holds must be tested and loose holds must occasionally be used, but this tends to improve technique rather than the reverse. The exponent of ‘grabbing hopefully’ will either improve or find himself contemplating his hold on his way back to the start of the climb.

The Yorkshire Ramblers played their pioneering part in the area when in 1948 Arthur Tallon climbed the Central Groove on Robin Proctor’s Scar, the smooth wall overlooking the Clapham-Austwick lane. The first of the easy climbs followed in 1950/51 by the ascent of a few obvious chimneys and broken buttresses, then in 1953 two routes (Ash Tree Crack and Wobbling Wall) were made on a small steep crag where the Norber ridge bends round to form the right flank of the valley containing Clapham Cave. ‘Wobbling Wall’ is a complete misnomer. This was a first attempt on a worth-while route on limestone and, after the absolute reliability of Lake District rock, the presence of one or two loose holds on the ledge halfway up the climb resulted in its rather unfortunate name. In fact it is doubtful if there is a more reliable 40 feet of limestone in the area. Other routes followed at rare intervals over the next ten years, mainly in the form of flank attacks on other outcrops. Occasionally, however, a good climb was discovered but there still remains much to be done.

The average climber will find a lot of enjoyment in being able to climb from the Club hut in a pleasant secluded area; once he has developed his technique to enable him successfully to overcome the rather different problems found on limestone, he too will be able to look around and make climbs of his own. For the novice I should add that limestone when damp is very greasy and is best avoided.

The climbs on each drag are described from left to right.

A — Ash Tree Crag

Ash Tree Crag – Austwick by J. Richards

Approach from Clapham by the lane to Austwick, through the tunnels. Take the left fork (Long Lane) and then through the third gate on the right and up the steep field. On the left there is a long line of scars parallel to the lane in the centre of a small outcrop with a disused lime kiln; on the right behind a large ash tree is Ash Tree Crag.

West Wall. 30 ft. V. Diff. Starts from a grassy bay and runs up the steep left-hand side of the undercut buttress. Climb to a narrow rock ledge, reached from the left with the aid of a fine incut hold. Then up and diagonally rightwards over a series of ledges to an exposed finish on excellent holds.
West Wall Direct. 40 ft. Severe. Starts on the left of the low cave. Climb the undercut and doubtful looking blocks by a semi-layback movement, then up the crack in the shallow corner. Make a two step traverse left and mantleshelf up on to the handholds, avoiding a loose block on left. Straight up to the finish of West Wall on improving holds.
Yellow Groove. 40 ft. Mild severe. About 6 yards right of last climb, up the second groove, containing a small ash tree. The start is rather awkward but a good left hand jam in the crack is useful. Ledges are reached below an open corner (running belay on ash tree). Climb left wall of corner, stepping right to finish.
Sunset Slabs. 40 ft. V. Diff. An interesting climb; better than it looks. Starts at the right hand end of the broken grassy section in the centre of the crag, below a series of little walls ending in a ‘V chimney. Climb the first little wall by a crack on its right, move left, then up the steep corner. Step left and up to the foot of the chimney and a doubtful spike. Step right on to perfect rock and so up to the top of the crag.
Ash Tree Crack. 40 ft. Severe. The start is immediately right of the clean ‘central buttress’ of the crag. Climb the crack using holds on the right wall. After a narrow section there is a small spike on the left for a running belay. Straight up to the overhang then traverse right using an excellent incut hand hold and small ledges for the feet. When both hands are grasping the good hold make a strenuous pull over the overhang on to easier ground.
Wobbling Wall. 40 ft. V. Diff. Starts six feet to the right of Ash Tree Crack.
1. 25 ft.: Climb the wall on good holds to a stance and belay by a withered elder tree.
2. 15 ft.: Climb above belay up an awkward groove to the top.
Terrace Wall. 40 ft. Diff. Starts a few feet to the right of the last climb.
1. 25 ft.: Leaving the ground is rather awkward; after attaining a standing position on an overhanging block, easier climbing leads slightly right to the terrace and a small spike belay. (The large flake by your feet is loose).
2. 15 ft.: Climb above the belay to a gangway slanting up to the left, huge holds lead to the top of the crag.
East Wall 30 ft. V. Diff. The terrace halfway up Climb (g) runs across the crag to descend at the foot of a large detached tower. Further right is a miniature tower on the skyline, this climb follows an incipient rib a few feet to right.
1. 20 ft.: Climb the poorly defined rib (a small incut hold for the right hand is very useful) to a stance and belay on a grassy ledge.
2. 10 ft.: Move left and up a little crack in the corner.
Rib and Chimney. 45 ft. Diff. The scars running parallel to Long Lane are rather broken and loose; the only climb so far lies just to the left of a large detached mass of rock approximately half way along the crag. Climb the rib from its lowest point, then up broken rocks and grass. Traverse left to a nice little chimney which leads to the top of the crag.

On the left of the above chimney is a large block bounded on its left by an oblique chimney. This has been climbed by continuing the traverse on the last climb, the rocks below being too loose and broken to give an independent start.

Some twenty yards further left is a prominent nose, on its immediate right is a fine crack; this has been approached from below by means of a loose scramble, the crack itself appears sound but has not yet been climbed.

B. — Robin Proctor’s Scar

This large cliff is to the right of and lower than Ash Tree Crag. The only weakness is a groove which runs up the centre of the crag to the right of a ‘V shaped growth of ivy.

Central Groove. 90 ft. Severe. Awkward rocks lead to the foot of a steep crack which is climbed until it widens into a grassy gully. Climb the back wall of the gully to the top. Several running belays are available.

C — Crummackdale

From the farm follow the track above Austwick Beck Head to where it swings left to run in front of the cliffs at the head of the valley, then up the scree to the first steep outcrop, a few yards to the right from where a broken wall has been built on the scars. There are two routes, one either side of an overhanging block on the upper half of the cliff; both are rather artificial in that the line can be varied somewhat.

Wall and Corner. 40 ft. V. Diff. Up a steep wall via a thin crack to a grass ledge, then up the square cut corner stepping on to the right wall to finish.
Cranesbill Crack. 40 ft. V. Diff. A nice climb. A few yards to the right of the last climb, below an obvious zigzag crack in the upper half of the cliff. Up steep little walls to an overhung ledge. From the ledge climb the overhang and follow the crack which gives good holds to the top.

Further to the right above the centre of the valley the cliffs become much larger; a rusty peg and wooden wedges are evidence that some work had been done here. The wall with the rusty peg has been climbed. Start at the left, climb to the peg (runner), traverse right and up steep corner to the top. (About V. Diff.).

D — Feizor Nick

Feizor Nick is the gap in the hills behind the hamlet of Feizor (M.R. 789682 O.S. Sheet 90). Follow the road through the second gate where parking is available on the right. The rocks have been quarried on the extreme left and there is more loose material lying on the ledges than there is on the rocks previously described.

Ivy Buttress. 50 ft. V. Diff.Starts above the ruined lime kiln, between a hawthorn and a rowan, up a wall with ivy growing on the left.
1. 30 ft.: Climb up to a flake in a corner, then from the flake make a delicate step leftwards up the steep wall to a square stance and a flake belay.
2. 20 ft.: Climb above the belay to a large ledge which unfortunately breaks the continuity; a choice of routes then leads to the top. A more direct finish up a groove, reached by traversing right from the belay, has been investigated but needs extensive clearing of loose rock before it would be safe.
Crackstone Wall. 30 ft. V. Diff. A nice little route, about 20 yards to the right of the last climb, in a grassy bay near a big ash tree. Takes the obvious cracked wall forming the left hand side of a steep corner. Start at the bottom left hand side of the wall, climb diagonally right to a small hawthorn (running belay), then step back left to finish. There are several loose rocks on the ledges at the top of this climb.

E — Twistleton Scar (near Ingleton)

Twistleton Scar is covered by an article in The Climber (July 1964) which contains an excellent diagram of the crag. This is one of the better limestone outcrops and is well worth a visit. The grading of the climbs is sensible and (an important point) consistent.

In the next field, towards the Hill Inn, from the existing Twistleton routes are four more climbs. A prominent cairn on the skyline is a good landmark and the place to make for. On the crag itself is an obvious narrow pillar bounded left and right by wide cracks. To the left of the pillar is a smooth wall and the first climb runs up the extreme left edge.

Shelob. 30 ft. Severe. Climb on to the pedestal blocks then move diagonally rightwards up the wall to easier ledges, then straight up to the top.
Rowan Tree Wall. 30 ft. V. Diff. A few yards further right, just to the right of where a thin crack runs down the blank wall. Straight up the wall to the small tree (runner), then slightly left to the top. Immediately right is an easy chimney behind the pillar, a useful easy way down.
Central Pillar. 30 ft. V. Diff. The obvious pillar between two smooth cracks. Start using the left hand crack, then the right hand one about half way up. Finish directly up the front of the pillar.
Pillar Ridge. 30 ft. V. Diff. A ridge comes down to the right of the Central Pillar and is reached via a shallow scoop round to the right. This is rather awkward but moving back left on to the ridge leads to easier rocks which are followed to the top.