Chippings
In reply to the query about ‘Scouts and Outposts’ Arthur Evans remembered reading about this type of event in O.J. Oppenheimers ‘Heart of Lakeland’ and had gained the impression that such events formed a commonplace part of clubs activities during the early part of the century. As a result of Arthur’s information and other researches the short article ‘Scouts and Outposts’ appears in this issue. It all sounds like a lot of fun and could transform a dull day at a quiet time of the year. Over to the meets subcommittee?
Arthur recalled incidents from his climbing in the 1930’s. His route, Corrugated Cracks (180ft, severe,1937 with P. Smith) on the pillar of Elidir, Elidir Fawr above Marchlyn Mawr has to the right of it a slab. Arthur was in the area with some inexperienced climbers and rather than tackle the known routes which might prove too difficult he decided to try a line on the slabs. He ran out the full 150ft of line with two pebbles and a length of line with him but no chance to use them. He had no alternative but to reverse and give up. Thirty years later that route was to become Janus (1967, C. T. Jones and T. Moulam) using two pegs for belays.
Also as a student at the University of Liverpool, Arthur re-established the LUCC on a firm footing. An earlier attempt to get it started was masterminded by one J Menlove Edwards. An inaugural meeting was held and attended by lM.E, a couple of fellows and a hoard of females who were not climbers. It was not considered an auspicious start and soon petered out.
‘Nobody, not even Brian Lara or Wayne Gretzky, has set such impossibly high standards in his sport as Reinhold Messner’ starts an article in The Economist, (25 June 1994 p114) brought to our attention by Dennis Armstrong. It describes the now fifty year old Reinhold’s contribution to mountaineering as being the introduction of alpine style ascents to the Himalayan peaks.
Arthur Salmon and the team in the Lofoten area on the Norwegian meet produced the articles which have graced this and the last issue. Their complete report includes valuable information for anyone thinking of going to the area.
The Beara Peninsula, County Cork, Ireland certainly impressed Don Mackay with its splendid walks along mountain ridges, mpressive scenery & coast. Add this to its interesting history and folklore and he suggests it as a possible place for a future meet.
The 1994 Alpine Journal contains an article by Alan Blackshaw based on the paper he was requested to present to the Union of Alpine Associations (UlAA) General Assembly at Santiago during 1993. Entitled ‘Competitions in Mountain Areas’ it considers the position of the UlAA with respect to mountaineering-related sports. The UlAA is considering proposals that it should take responsibility in skimountaineering competition for the European Cup and recognise as a model for high-altitude competitions the Republic of Kirghizstan’s Kang Tengri competition. Alan, as Chair of the UlAA’s Mountaineering Commission, identifies the following as some of the key questions:
Is competition compatible with mountaineering?
Would involvement compromise the mountain environment or safety?
Would UlAA involvement be welcomed by its membership?
Is world-wide control needed?
A programme of work to assess these issues and the different competitions on the ground was agreed; and proposals are to be put to the UlAA General Assembly this year.
Those who climbed La Meije in the Ecrins might be interested to learn that the old tat and rappel gear which used to cover the mountain has been removed and sound anchor points established. This is part of a tightening up by the National Park authorities which includes the requirement to secure prior approval before equipping routes.
Forty five ‘mountaineers’ descending from Mont Blanc were overtaken by a storm and sought refuge in the Vallot Hut and had to be rescued. Not one of them felt capable of descending in the poor visibility as they had no map or compass.
lan Laing has been off to the Canada this summer. Cliff Cobb and Alan Linford who have been there previously have passed to him all their maps and guides for the country. lan will hold these for anyone else who might be interested.
The idea of pooling information and listing who has information on which areas could well work to everyones benefit. Can anyone see a way of making it work?
In May lan Crowther visited the Picos de Europa in the northern Spanish provinces of Cantabria and Asturias. He describes than as magnificent, startling even, and a suitable place for a meet.
Mike Godden and Derek Smithson were In Norway during early September. Derek is looking for company to go back in Mayor June 1995 possibly to Jotunheimen or just north of Stavanger. For the moment though he passes on news of developments. They used the Norsk Tinderklub hut in Skagastelsdalen and found it comfortable. Other members may be able to use it.
The D.N.T have opened a posh new hut at Eidsburgarten but only for summer use. No contact was made with our kindred club, the Ardal Turlag and the Slingsby Institute did not hold a syposium. It did however arrange for some students to meet Norwegian students in Ardal.
Mountain and Wildlife Ventures have two interesting developments. One is skiing for beginners who are over fifty, with snow shoes as an alternative. The other is their hut in eastern Norway with open canoeing, walking and bird watching.
The summer saw your editor, Michael Smith, off to the East coast of the USA watching cardinals, osprey and pelican from the beach of North Carolina, failing to see beaver round their lodges in upstate New York but spotting plenty of wild turkey.
Family walks in the Shenandoah based on Big Meadows Lodge took us to the highest point, Hawksbill Mountain, 4051ft, waterfalls and the scramble up to Bearfence Mountain. The deer being so close, eating Millom apples straight from the tree and finding ten centimetre long millipedes were the highlights.
Following the fatalities of two Austrian climbers trapped, by bad weather, above 6000m on Illimani the Club Andino Boliviano are no longer able to assist visitors beyond supplying bus tickets to Chacaltaya. In fact, they have been fined 1000 Bolivianos (about £150) by the Ministry of Tourism for organizing transport without a licence and forbidden to deal with foreigners. Their fluent English speaking tourism coordinator, Senorita Maria Laura Prommel, has now set up on her own, nearby, as Colonial Tours, Calle Mexico 1733, La Paz, post to Casilla 5108, La Paz, telephone/fax on La Paz 316073. Yossi Brain is working with Colonial as a guide and has wide experience of the Bolivian ranges. The Quimsa Cruz, with is 5000m peaks, sounds as if it is worth a visit for new rock routes.
Letters to the Editor
Dear Sir,
Who is Derek Smithson getting at in the fourth paragraph of his article headed ‘This is Rambling’ ?
I am an older member and I received my education in a traditional British manner. The cap fits and I don’t like it.
It is precisely because I do not wish to be thought of as a boastful Munroist that I was so reluctant to agree to write the article you requested.
Yours faithfully
Aug. 1994
Peter Swindells
Derek replies:
Dear Sir,
My words were not intended to upset, not Peter of all people, and I am sure he recognised my fifth paragraph as representing my doubts about the generalisation. Peter’s reputation for doing needless, even heedless, things for his own amusement in the mountains counteracts his devotion to Munro bagging.
My views, however badly expressed, are a development from my early days, climbing without guide books, when we could enjoy a good days climbing without reaching the top of a crag. When, following marks, we did the bottom half of one route and the top of another. Having guide books robbed me of the pleasure of discovery. How I relate this to the Public and Grammar School systems preparing us to serve the Empire is a much more complex and maybe fallacious matter.
When Mount Everest first permitted a British party to reach its summit it was welcomed as the ‘Conquest of Everest’. Captain Scott, who killed himself attaining a goal, has been revered as a hero whilst those who survived similar conditions without attaining such a goal have not been presented by our educationalists as people to emulate. These were unfortunate attitudes.
Yours faithfully
September 1994
Derek Smithson