Expedition Diary
1957-Nepal
Maurice Wilson
April 22 (Easter Monday)
We had a fair amount of snow during the night. It was cold but, eventually, I realised that it was striking at my buttocks through the Lilo. By simply dragging the Duvet suit further beneath me, the trouble stopped.
Breakfast was served through the tent flaps fairly punctually and I quite enjoyed the porridge. I much prefer our breakfast to the scant dinner of pemmican and ryvita.
I emerged from the tent to find a beautiful morning and an enchanting view. Our small camp was by majestic peaks. The one to the North West, especially, captures my imagination. I feel I would like to climb it. The so-called ‘Ladies Peak’, fills the background, finely. I took several pictures, thought I suspect my shutter has frozen.
We collapsed the tents and weighted them down with stones. Then we roped up and fairly romped down the glacier. I left lilo, duvet and one sleeping bag behind, to save weight. The lower icefall looked grand at close quarters and, soon after reaching Camp One, the ‘Ferry Party’ joined us. On the way to Base, Dan took some movie pictures in colour, for which I ‘played’ various parts.
Had chicken and dehydrated raspberries for dinner.
April 23.
We all had a lie-in this morning. Had a discussion on equipment to be returned home and what could be left. Had a pleasant session with the Sherpas regarding their songs. They gave me the words of one, but it is difficult to write down the tunes satisfactorily. They spent most of the morning playing a game with dice, called Swazo. Arthur and I had a game of Patience and then sorted out a few extra rations for the High Altitude boxes, mainly meat bars, sardines, and soup. these were then placed into three polythene bags, one for each Camp. I started on a book called, ‘Communism and Christianity’, rather heavy going.
This evening was quite good fiin. I went down to the kitchen and got the Sherpas singing. They would sing a song and then I sang the English equivalent song. Eventually, Crosby, Arthur and George, attracted by the din, joined us and we continued for some time. We finished off our part of the show with a rendering of ‘Ilkla Moor’, and an improvised ‘Sunhoss Sherpa’. (Sunhoss is my own pronunciation of the Sherpa work for ‘Goodnight’, and seems to cause them much amusement).
The smoke from the wood fire in the kitchen was painful to my eyes and I had to get a pair of goggles, though they didn’t make a great deal of difference.
April 24.
This morning we all set out for Camp One with varying loads, leaving at 6.40 a.m. and arriving about 8.50 a.m. I went rather better, though I only carried 20 lbs. Still, this is easily my best time for the trip. A good deal of snow has gone from the lower slopes and the higher track is well beaten down. Arthur and Dan stayed behind. I took my time coming back with George, who was unwell.
Had salmon for lunch. The usual clouds came down rather early today, about 10.30 a.m. and the afternoon brought a fairly long shower of snow. We spent the evening, as usual, just talking in the tent.
Marari.
This young student is our Liaison Officer. Probably about 20 years old, he is very intelligent and well-read. His is absolutely invaluable to us as an interpreter, both with the coolies from Tempathang and the Sherpas. He usually feeds with us but, as often as not, prefers the company in the kitchen. He came out with us once, on our first recce, of the route to Camp One.
Song for the Beloved
Translated by J. C. Ravalde
