Norway – 1994
Mike Godden
Overhearing on the Long Walk that Derek Smithson’s companion for a visit to Norway has had to drop out, and seeking a chance to test out his fitness after back surgery, Mike has offered to join Derek and take along his car. From Bergen they have driven to Voss then a little further to Saue and camped for the night.
Tuesday 30 August
It was 0937 when we finally stirred. The weather was good although no sun and we had a late breakfast on our cabin, courtesy of Derek. After disembarking at Bergen we drove to Saue by Lonavatnet, just north of Voss, where we camped for the night.
Wednesday 31 August
The morning day dawned fine giving way to a sunny drive via the ferry from Vangsnes to Hella, and on to our destination at Turtagro, As we looked South East from the car park, Storen could be seen against blue sky, with other Murungane peaks to the right.
A magnificent view, but Derek had to go to the Turtagro Hotel to receive the key to the Tindeklubbhytta, our final destination. We made good use of some spare time to repack our food and equipment in preparation for the walk to the Hytte situated at 1344m. The walk was a very hot affair for me, but 1 was pleased to find I had no problems carrying the weight, and we eventually arrived at the somewhat imposing Hytte at 1600 hrs.
The building was large, quaint, and spotless with oil lamps, candles, three wood burning stoves, and an open fire in a large lounge/dining room, There was sleeping accommodation for 12 in 6 rooms, each with wash basin and water jug. It reminded me of home in the mid 1940’s. The kitchen was also a dining area and the adjacent 2 bunk room made it convenient and cosy. The wood stove in the kitchen was very efficient, and water was heated on its top in a large container. Cooking was by a propane oven with gas rings.
Throughout the Hytte were Tindaklubb memorabilia, books and magazines. Derek left YRC information as our calling card. Food could be purchased from a large stock and the extensive cellar housed further supplies including wood. The outlook was over a small lake towards the precipitous face of Dryhaugstindane (2147m). A good evening meal of chicken in white sauce was enjoyed with all the trimmings, and after much worldly talk we turned in at 2200 hrs having decided to attempt Dryhaugstindane the next day.
Thursday 1 September
Thursday morning saw us ready to start out in good weather at 0800, but Storen and its associated tops were in cloud, We wondered if the fresh snow we had observed above 1700m the previous day would affect our progress. We crossed the river running from the lake and were immediately admonished by the Lemming colony on the far side. We were to be warned, screamed at, but not quite attacked, wherever we went thereafter by these possessive rodents.
There were many boulders to surmount as we gained height, and we were soon into the snow. The views were breath-taking and Derek was able to identify for me the surrounding peaks. As we gained height the snow became deeper and the frequency at which our legs disappeared into snow covered holes behind boulders increased. Eventually, at about 1940m we decided not to proceed further. The weather seemed to be deteriorating and progress was very slow, We descended using as many snow patches as we could, and having lunch on the way arrived back at the Hytte by mid-afternoon.
Adjacent to the Hytte were three tents which we had noticed the previous day, and Derek took the opportunity to converse with the occupants while I changed my wet (with sweat) clothes, and hung them to dry, It turned out the campers were Danish and had been climbing Storeh the day before, not returning to their tents until the early hours of the morning, Derek then took a lone walk to reconnoitre a track we thought we had seen from Dryhaugstindane between our valley and Styggedalen. If it was a path it may have saved some time on our walk to Vormeli the next day. It transpired that the supposed path was in fact a break in the strata.
Friday 2 September
When I got up, at 0600, I still felt tired – a bad omen – and at 0845, fed and watered we left for the Hytte at Vormeli in Utladalen, a journey of approximately 10 miles as near as can be calculated from the map.
We set off down the Turtagro path for about a mile then headed north east for Styggedalen, On the way we passed a deep stone shelter amidst some rocks but could not decide its purpose. In the distance we saw a lone walker, and took a line down to the out- fall of a small lake to cross the river. The Jake was dammed but we were able to get across the river safely. Our path took us close to the end of Styggedalsbreen, a truly magnificent glacier, and we observed a party high on the steep snow slopes between Kolnosi and Skagast0lstindane. We continued east over what seemed to be endless boulders, finally stopping for lunch at the side of a lake at 1470m. The tops of Styggedalstindane and Gjertvasstind were lost in cloud, but the long ridge from the east was visible and Derek recounted some of his exploits of a previous visit with a Norwegian. To me, the mountains were awesome.
On we went to a small cabin at Gjertvasshaugen, where we conversed briefly with a young Belgian couple, and then down Gjertvassdalen to cross the river. This took some time and retracing of steps until we finally found a safe crossing with our boots on, Our ski sticks were invaluable aids. Progress was then swift until we entered the wooded area at Gjertvassb0en where the birch and willows caused progress to slow considerably. The one path had many twists and turns, ups and downs, but was easy to follow once we had found it. I was about all in, and when the Vormeli Hytte came into view through the trees at 1630 hrs, I was greatly relieved.
The Hytte is an old farm house privately owned by a farmer at Skiolden, but run by the Vormeli Group who rebuilt the four bed accommodation in 1974-76. It is a pleasant compact structure, with its resident family of mice, one of which was tame enough to try and climb onto Derek’s lap. Our food was cooked on the usual wood burning stove, and bed was gained early, as was “rise and shine” the following morning.
Saturday 3 September
I had managed to dry my wet cloths the night before but did not look forward to the prospect of completing our circular tour via the Skardst0lsbandet at 1758m, I still felt tired, and somewhat weaker in spite of a long sleep and good calorie intake. Since the previous Thursday afternoon, my body still bad not taken in sufficient fluid to enable me to enjoy a good pee, despite the copious amounts of water consumed. I was beginning to get a bit worried and depressed.
We departed the Hytte at 0715 and set off down the Utla Gorge. After some 3 kilimetres and over two hours later, we finally reached our lowest river point of 480m before we struck north west straight up the valley side to gain entrance to the hanging valley of Midtmaradalen, Our guide on the ascent was a “Church Spire” shaped rock above us, and after many rests we arrived at a beautiful still pond full of lush vegetation. Food was taken a little further on and I was becoming dizzy., I knew salt was the problem, although I had taken care to take in salt with my meals. There was only one way out of the dilemma. From that point I sucked my sweatband before wringing it out. It worked and the dizziness went. However, it made me more thirsty.
Midtmaradalen is 5.5 kilometres long from the true entry point to the head wall and glacier at its end. I began to wonder if I was going to make it over the pass, but Derek assured me that the head wall was easily passed to the right, and then it was a steady trudge up the glacier to the D.N.T. Hytte at the Skardstolsbandet. We had not gone far when we saw a lone Reindeer, It was a magnificent male in the process of shedding the velvet from its antlers, no doubt prior to the Autumn rut. Its coat glistened, and it moved effortlessly like a floating ship. The incident stimulated conversation that bucked me up somewhat.
After a further stop, although I had no appetite for food, we started to climb up the valley side across more large boulders, with Slingsbybreen on our right, As we passed the Slingsby Glacier and started our climb, there were several thunderous falls of ice from the end of the glacier. As I had assumed, the route succumbed to our efforts easily via rock scrambles/ climbs, and the crossing of a steep snow patch. I had to use my crampons to ensure my own safety on account of my gammy left leg. A rope was unnecessary. After a long pull up the eastern side of the Midtmaradalsbreen we arrived at the D.N.T. Hytte at the head of the pass. With great relief, but some personal apprehension at starting down from the pass on soft snow over ice, we descended and arrived back at the Tindeklubbhytta at 1730 hrs. Even the “Tiger” of the party admitted to being stretched, and I had gone dizzy again, We decided to stay the night at the Hytte again and proceed next day to Turtagro then to 0vre Ardal. My trousers were so wet I wondered if they would diy out that night, and I began to shiver with cold. It was then I decided I would not accompany Derek on the next three days backpacking.
I broke the news to him whilst we were preparing our evening meal, and he expressed his sympathy with my decision. His kind remarks seemed to lift considerably burden from my shoulders. We would now have to replan the remainder of the holiday, I had yet to come to terms with the realisation that, because of constant sweating and a weak leg which did not get stronger with sustained effort, I would have to adopt a new mental approach to my outdoor activities, or ‘blow a fuse’ in the process.
Sunday 4 September
After breakfast we set off for Turtagro. The key was duly returned, and a very scenic drive via the mountain road to Berdalen and Fardalen took us to 0vre Ardal, and thence to the campsite at Ardalstangen. I booked a cabin for the next three nights and we sorted out our clothing prior to taking a most welcome shower. The weather seemed about to change for the worst, but optimistic that it would hold, Derek prepared for a three day trip from Eidsbugarden and I would stay at the cabin.
The plan was for me to take Derek to Eidsbugarden, some 40 miles away, and return for him on Wednesday 7 September at 1200 hrs. The hairpin bends from 0vre Ardal into Moadalen were spectacular to say the least, and the 19 kilometre dirt road along the shore of Lake Tyin was a reminder of the Centenary visit. Derek was duly despatched on his walk along the north shore of Lake Bygdin in an easterly direction, to spend his first night near Hoystakkane. He would then complete a circular walk via Geitho, Raudalen to Olavsbu, then via Raudalsvatnet crossing a high point of 1617m to the head of 0vre Mjolkedalen, spending Tuesday night in the area of Mjolkedalsvatnet.
Monday 5 September
I had found that constant profuse sweating day after day caused a problem of dehydration and fatigue which was not recoverable overnight. T had also found that the weakness in my left leg together with some muscle wastage, had not improved over 3 days, the one positive improvement resulting from my back operation was that I had no trouble carryinhg a heavy pack. The day was spent drinking lots of tea, reading and sleeping.
Tuesday 6 September
It rained all night and most of the morning, some of it heavy. Poor old Derek, The rain appeared to have stopped early in the afternoon and there was some evidence of the cloud base rising, so I put on my boots and headed for Hjelle in the car. There was still some intermittent rain, and a blister on my right heel was painful. At Hjelle I decided not to bother and returned to Ardalstangen for a walk round the shops.
Wednesday 7 September
My body had finally stopped taking in fluid and was giving some out now. What a relief to get back to normal.
I packed, cleaned the cabin, and left at 0925 for Eidsbugarden arriving at 1030, No sign of Derek yet. I was thinking how desolate the place was and that I had not seen another vehicle or soul on the 19k dirt road when a small passenger boat arrived at the jetty and three motor coaches came down the road.
At 1200 on the dot Derek arrived. We had a brew and some lunch and set off on our journey south to Saue where we would stay on our last night in Norway. Although there was no rain, the weather had been dull and cold at 1100m, but improving all the time. Apparently Derek’s walk had not been as exciting as he had hoped, and was quite easy. He did not get wet although there had been some rain. His final camp had been reached prematurely, signifying that perhaps extra distance may have been welcome.
Our car journey south took us via Laerdalsfjiorden and a superb mountain road by Hornadalen and Hornsnipa to Aurland. On arrival at Saue, this time we took a cabin and prepared for the return ferry crossing.
We had enjoyed some good weather and Derek’s itinerary had been well thought out. My worst fears had come to pass, and I had realised how much of a “wild man” of the hills my companion was, and how deeply he is involved with Norway.
None of us knows what the future holds, but I shall continue to pursue my outdoor activities to the full in spite of my runaway body thermostat. Still, I hope I shall not need a zimmer frame with adjustable legs for many years to come.