Meet Report: 22-24 March 2024 at Brackenclose.

Brackenclose looking up towards Pikes Crag and Scafell

The author of this report exhorted (harangued?) the meet attendees to elevate their offering about their activities to a level of purple prose not previously experienced by our readers.

Several questioned the meaning of purple prose. Here is an example from Simon Jenkins, extolling Sheffield station:

At night its environs recede into the darkness and careful lighting picks out Charles Trubshaw’s twelve arched screen.  For a brief moment, Sheffield becomes the Rome of the North, with the Baths of Caracalla and the Trevi Fountain in the foreground.

Easy.

But those who know Sheffield station might, possibly ungenerously, suggest this    example is complete BS. You judge, but I fear for the colour of what follows.

Brackenclose, superbly positioned at the top end of Wastwater and on the lower slopes of Scafell, occupies a special place amongst the affections of climbers. It was the first Fell and Rock Climbing Club (FRCC) hut and the only one which was architect designed and purpose built. The hut was officially opened in October 1936. By today’s standard the amenities were very basic. There was no electricity, showers were cold only, cooking was by primus stoves, lighting by oil lamps or Tilley lamps and heating came from the open fire in the Common room. In due course, Calor gas and some form of water heaters were installed but electricity did not arrive until 1977 when it became possible to upgrade all facilities.

A devastating fire in April 2019 destroyed much of the building. Following a major rebuilding and improvement programme to the sleeping accommodation, washrooms, showers and toilets, and delays caused by covid, Brackenclose was reopened for in June 2022. The FRCC Chronicle had a Brackenclose Restoration Special edition in which fuller details can be found. This was the first YRC meet to revisit the refurbished hut.

Your reporter and Yayoi arrived mid-Friday afternoon after motoring over Wynose and Hardknott, without meeting another vehicle until half-way down Eskdale. Dalegarth Station outshone the splendour of Sheffield station in the warmth of its welcome, the beauty of its situation and the fine sight of the locomotive River Mite in full steam. Our pleasure at the first view of the refurbished hut was cooled by the low temperature. Lots of attempts and much blowing were made to light a fire, the issues being damp or non-existent kindling, damp newspaper, no firelighters and damp matches! Once going, and with the hut filling with arrivals, things rapidly began to improve.

Our arrival coincided with that of Steve and Wendy, who immediately shot up the attractive Yewbarrow and were rewarded by this rainbow. Michael came over a high route from Raw Head in Great Langdale: the Band, Bowfell, Esk Pike, Broad Crag, Scafell Pike, Lingmell, Sty Head, and remained dry until he reached Wasdale Head. Helen joined with Christine and Jim driving a long route round the Furness peninsula, stopping at Haverigg near Millom to enjoy a short walk round Hodbarrow Nature Reserve. They spent time bird watching and examining iron industry ruins.

Saturday dawned dull, overcast, windy and raining. Nobody uncoiled a rope. Michael, Helen, the Richards, Judith, Conrad, Bev, Solvig, walked up to Sty Head, took the blustery and showery Climbers’ Traverse below Napes Needle to Beck Head. Some continued up Kirk Fell and of those some turned back when the risk of being blown over in a sleety headwind got too great.  All descended close to Gable Beck.

The Harrisons walked to Styhead Tarn and back. Toby and Kim, both PMs, ascended Scafell via Green How. The steep ascent was assisted by a strong westerly wind on their backs. Visibility decreased above the cloud base at 600m. The final 250m to the top was a climb through hail and a 40mph wind, neither of which were an incentive to hang about at the summit. A dusting of snow and wind-blown rime on the rocks gave rise to a cautious descent as the hail was blown into their faces at unpleasant speeds. The descent continued below the cloud over Hard Rigg ridge to gain the path at Burnmoor Tarn for a boggy tramp back to Brackenclose and on to the Wasdale Head Inn, gathering half a dozen members along the way

Richard, our meet leader, went in search of sacks of badly needed dry kindling and logs and a replacement tyre for his car, which had suffered a bad puncture on the top of Hardknott the previous day.

The Smiths went to the delightful ancient St Olav’s Church where the original 1924 plaque commemorating those members of the FRCC lost in the First World War now rests. A new updated plaque has now been placed in the original position near the summit of Gable. They then retreated to a warm fire in the bar of the hotel before returning to Brackenclose expecting to do battle with the hut fire once more: but with the new dry kindling, dry newspaper and firelighters, a one match ignition was sufficient to start a welcome blaze. The newly arrived Ged pressed us into making a second foray to the Wasdale Head where we were joined by Harvey and the various teams of walkers who had struggled with poor weather conditions.

Richard produced a fine supper in his usual calm unflappable way and all gathered together to enjoy an evening of conversation in the by now, very warm hut.

An evening at leisure under the crags of Scafell in Brackenclose. (Jim, far left, is anticipating Sheffield United’s next result)

From the start, it was obvious that Sunday was going to be a much better day. Kim started the day by a dip in Wastwater just as the sun was rising.

No purple prose to describe this (fool) hardy masochism, only purple parts.

After breakfast all assembled to be photographed by Solvig Choi, our guest for the weekend, a PhD student with Leeds University and the National Science and Media Museum, who is exploring the triangle of people, cameras and mountains. She brought with her a movie camera similar to the one used by Captain John Noel to record the 1922 Everest attempt. It’s weight (Ed: more properly mass) served to remind us just how hardy these early climbers were. Both Solvig and Judith, a PM, had enjoyed the wet Gable screes, proving their own hardiness. We hope to see more of them in the future.

Ged investigated Lord’s Rake, the dangerous fallen block previously  wedged across the top of the first rise heaving cleared itself. He continued across West Wall Traverse and reported conditions near the top to be sufficiently icy to be very interesting.

Helen and Michael returned to Langdale and their car via the tarns Styhead, Sprinkling, and Angle, resisting refreshment in the Dungeon Ghyll hotels.  The views were clear from Blencathra to the Irish Sea and over to Ingleborough.

Steve and Wendy headed back up to Sty Head, pausing to accompany M & H as they headed back to Langdale before enjoying a drier and much warmer ascent up to the col. After a final steep hot ascent, they were rewarded with far-reaching views across the Lakes from the summit of Gt Gable. Taking a direct line towards Kirk Fell led to a minor scree slope epic, crowned with S taking a sideways tumble and spending several moments sliding down backwards accompanied by two large menacing boulders! After the safety of the col they followed ‘Michael’s traverse’ across the northern slopes of Kirk Fell, having summited the mountain the day before. It proved an underused and delightful path, with scenic views opening to the north and down Ennerdale. After crossing the Black Sail track another pleasant path took them to the summit of Pillar and onwards to Black Crags and Scoat Fell. Reluctant to part from the stunning vistas their final ascent took them onto Red Pike before dropping down to Dore Head and down the western flank of Yewbarrow back to Wastwater and Brackenclose. An excellent day, marred only by a refusal of food at the Strands Hotel, Nether Wasdale due to not having made a reservation – despite the empty tables and ‘good food’ billboard outside! By contrast Rod & Yayoi found the Square Café in Broughton excellent, homely and welcoming: a super place to break the long drive round the outside to and from Wasdale.

In summary the meet was attended by 22 people. The consensus was that the refurbished Brackenclose was excellent. We extend our congratulations to the FRCC and thank them for the use of their fine hut. A most enjoyable time was had by all, despite some bad weather on the first day. Warm thanks to Richard for his organisation and superb catering. We look forward to our next meet at Brackenclose.

Attendees: Richard Josephy (Leader), Solvig Choi (guest), Judith Toland-Brown (PM), Harvey Lomas, Richard Smith, Fliss Roberts, Steve McCain, Ged Champion, Michael and Helen Smith, Conrad Tetley Kim Randall (PM), Toby Dickinson (PM), Richard Taylor, Jim and Christine Harrison, Steve and Wendy Richards, Beverly Eastwood, Rod and Yayoi Smith

Rod Smith 3 April 2024