Meet Report: 14-21 April 2023.

The extensive area of rugged granite in north-western Portugal which encompasses the Peneda-Gerês National Park (PNGP) bordering Spain is unspoilt, relatively little known and offers superb hill walking. The leader visited the area in 2005 and 2018 and this interesting and popular meet was planned as a result.

Excellent value self-catering accommodation (which included a very good breakfast) was arranged in apartments housed in the Pousada do Gerês: a modern spacious and well-equipped youth hostel in Campo do Gerês with friendly and welcoming staff which can be warmly recommended to future visitors.

In complete contrast to the washed-out Costa Blanca meet in 2022, North Portugal was blessed with a week of sunshine and blue skies for almost our entire visit, so shorts and T shirts were much in evidence, until the somewhat overgrown nature of some of the trails was recognised and a few ticks removed.

Friday 14th – Almost everyone assembled at the Pousada on Friday evening after their travels. John arrived by bus having spent some time in Porto and Braga. Mick, Ian and Nick stopped off for an excellent and leisurely lunch in Terras de Bouro and sampled what proved to be the best local red wine of the week – intensely dark red-purple, with a spritz and served chilled, it was an excellent accompaniment to some superb veal steaks. After visiting the local Roman bridge, most people headed down to Geira Adega, one of the local bars, for a tapas-style meal in the evening where the first course was smoked sausage flambéed in aguardente (a Portuguese grappa).

Saturday 15th – Mick, Ian, John, Richard, Pete, Jen and Peter drove north to the Serra do Soajo to walk to Pedrada and the Fojo do Lobo (wolf trap) from the Travanca campsite.

A good track through the gorse, formerly used for transhumance, gave access to more broken ground where long horned barrosã cattle grazed and three wild boars were seen. The rocky ascent led to Pedrada (1416m) and then a pathless descent by the funnelling 2m high drystone walls of the wolf trap leading to the deep terminal pit.  A good track led more quickly back to the car. 18.2km, 900m ascent. Stopping in Soajo they walked round the impressive collection of espigueiros (grain stores) before enjoying a welcome beer.

The Smiths drove to Fafião for Trilho da Veziera and Bicos Altos. Fiona ran the runnable parts of the longer round shown in a guidebook, anticlockwise (21km) and got well and truly scratched on the round northern half. Helen, Dave and Michael took the shortcut (equally rough) from the dam on that route which passed a couple of shepherds’ rock huts then went steeply up past  Bicos Alto (1199m). Crossing over this summit took them to Fiona’s descent route (another abrigo) and down to join Fiona’s route. 18.7km with 1,006m ascent. A considerate daughter having finished her yoga exercises drove the car to a bridge to meet them and save them the road walk back up to the village. They stopped at the Sao Bento church on the way back.

Chris, Christine, David and Nick walked through the village and hiked the length of the reservoir, Albufeira de Vilarinho da Fuma to a bridge crossing the Rio Homem which was an ideal lunch stop.

On the way back they examined the Roman milestones that they passed as the walk took them along an original paved section of Roman Road. They took their time observing the diverse flowers and insects including butterflies seen.

After a short walk into Carreira and a coffee stop, Steve and Wendy explored the peaks to the south east of Campo do Gerês: Calcedonia and Curvaceira, before taking the Trilho das Silhas dos Ursos, topping out at 900m at the fine viewpoint over the Gerês valley. Descent was via a section of the GR50 back to the Pousada, an early introduction to the tricky route finding through scratchy, and overgrown paths.

Sunday 16th – Mick, Ian, John, Peter and Jen set out from the hostel to tackle the western half of the Cicerone Gerês circuit walk and climb the Pé de Cabril (goats foot mountain) in the Serra do Gerês.

They started on a section of the Roman Road and picked up the main route which ascended a valley to cross undulating rocky terrain on a good path, with plenty of wild flowers and butterflies. Lunch was taken at Prado, a spring watered meadow with a shepherds’ hut. The triple summits of the Pé de Cabril came into view and all except John scrambled to one of the summits facilitated by a few strategically placed stemples and was followed by a long descent. The views of the wild terrain to the east were impressive and beckoned for a visit later in the week. The shade in the Albergaria beech woods was welcome and the track above the reservoir was followed back to the village and stopping for dinner at the Parque Cerdeira restaurant. 22.9km with 990m ascent.

The older Smiths accompanied by Richard Taylor headed for Calcedonia, stopping at Covide café for a coffee. Views of rocky Calcedonia and Curvaceira tempted them to approach and skirt round just below their well defended summits. A descent northeast crossed the EM533 which was considered too boring to follow home. The map showed a track (Trilho da Silha dos Ursos) leading to within 50m of a path down. It lied. Instead, further on, with a bit of bushwhacking, a newer path took them down to near the activity centre café by the museum for a long awaited beer. 17.3km with 730m ascent.

Chris’s party as before did a walk from Brufe which took in three villages and attempted a top called Carvalhinha (1096m).

The village of Brufe has many fine examples of espigueiros (grain stores). Passing through varied landscapes of mixed woodland, then gorse and heather covered hills they saw barrosã cattle and wild horses with foals on the higher areas. They made a slight navigational faux pas on their way down which led them through a labyrinth of prickly gorse and delayed their return journey. Christine, who had taken a diversion earlier in the walk, was at a loss to know what had held them up.

Joined by Pete, Wendy and Steve crossed the dam of the Albufeira de Vilarinho das Furnas and followed a pleasant path up to the summit of Muro (1345m), getting their first glimpse of grazing cattle and shepherds’ beehive shelters, with glorious views north and west over swathes of yellow gorse and purple heather. Passing what looked like an old wolf trap, they continued up to Lourica (1359m) the highest point in the Serra Amarela, before winding down little used paths and meadows through the sub-alpine forest back to the Albufeira. Unfortunately the path emerged about 150m short of the dirt track, necessitating a trying battle with overgrown gorse and brambles – ouch!

Monday 17th – A large group set off to walk the Trilho dos Currais from Vila do Gerês.  After a shady start through the woods, they explored several corrals used for communal grazing; but no goats were there today.  They took in fabulous views from the Miradouro do Pedra Bela before the descent back to the town for a welcome beer or two. Jen picked up two ticks, Mick one. 10.5 km with 650m ascent.

Meanwhile Steve and Wendy took the historical Roman route north alongside the Albufeira, branching off at the end to follow the old Roman Road through the trees up to the Spanish border. Reversing the route, they opted for a cool dip at a series of waterfalls before taking in the scenic bridge over the Homem river and returning past the milestone pillars to Campo.

Inspired by Chris’s report of yesterday’s trip, the Smiths set off to climb Carvalhinha summit (1036m) from Brufe. 12.8km, with 500m ascent. Seeing a (probable) fox high on the ridge was followed by Dave’s successfully navigated ad hoc descent and a drink at the O Abocanhado.

Meanwhile, Tim tackled the trail to the Pé de Cabril and located a partially hidden slot that gave ready access to the middle and eastern tops.

Tuesday 18th – Most walked to the Ponta da Misarela from Sidros and the Via Ferrate Teto do Mundo near Alturas do Barroso. They split into two parties so that our available VF kit could be shared; while one group did the VF in the morning and the other did a short walk taking in the impressive Roman bridge over the Rio Rabagão. 

All enjoyed the short, steep VF on granite for a change, while Chris and Dave walked up to the Corvos summit (1216m) to view their respective groups crossing the last section of the VF over a wire bridge.

While the Smith party did the walk in the afternoon, at Ferral, a young Western Montpellier Snake, about a metre long, attempting to flee from our group leftwards, ended up beneath Michael’s right boot. Thinking it was a stick he hopped over it and the snake went over his left foot forming a loop pushing against his ankle. Within a second or two it had vanished into the grass.  These green-black snakes can grow to over twice this one’s size and are venomous but rarely trouble people, mainly feeding on lizards.

Wednesday 19th – A mass outing was made to the Minas dos Carris from Portela de Homem. As this is in the PNPG Total Protection Zone (TPZ), formal authorisation is required from ICNF for access. 

Tim and Mick applied for permits which were coincidentally issued for the same day, so all except the two Christines set off, stopping briefly so that an ICNF official could check our permits and count heads.  Mick stopped again to talk to the restaurant to order the main courses for our group dinner in the evening! The rough mine access track led steadily upwards to reach the abandoned buildings of the old tungsten mine complex. The peak of Carris (1508m) was ascended – the highest point of the week. Steve and Wendy found time for a proper swim in the Rio Homem before heading back. 22km with 850m ascent. Everyone enjoyed our group meal at the Parque Cerdeira restaurant.

Meanwhile Chris and Christine walked from almost the Spanish border through shady woods alongside the Rio Homem crossing several bridges along the way. They then traversed the length of the reservoir back to the hostel via the bar of the “flaming sausage”. A beer for Christine and a vinho verde for Chris.

Thursday 20th – The views across to the wild terrain on the eastern side of the Gerês circuit seen from Pé Cabril on Monday prompted Mick, Ian, John, Peter and Jen to hike the second half of the round taking in an ascent of Borrageiro.

They parked at the Portela de Leonte and headed up into more undulating granite hills interspersed with three delightful grassy meadows: Curral do Vidoal, Curral do Cunho and Prado da Messe, each complete with a spring, oak trees and a small cabane. They ascended Borrageiro (1430m) and had lunch, then sighted two sizeable herds of cabra montés (Iberian wild goats). Formerly hunted to extinction, a new population has established itself in the PNPG with animals migrating from the adjacent Spanish park of Baixa Limia – Serra de Xures. They then met Steve, Wendy and Pete who were doing the full circuit in one go. Probably the best walk of their week. 16.9km with 960m ascent.

John set off from the hostel to explore the Roman Road intent on seeing dome of the original paving.

Joined again by Pete Bann, Steve and Wendy opted for the Cicerone Guide’s ‘Gerês Circuit’. Navigation proved a little easier than expected, given the ‘very challenging’ description in the guidebook, principally thanks to the Guru Mapping App and the odd bit of micro-nav!

Once onto the Penedo Furado they enjoyed extensive views, with the remnants of a cloud inversion still visible to the south west. After passing under the Pé de Cabril and descending to Portela de Leonte, the climb to Curral do Vidoal was straightforward. Passing through a series of currals (corrals) and meadows was a delight, to include gently passing through a herd of wild horses at Prado da Messe, just after catching up with Mick’s group. After tricky route finding off the Prado da Messe, the descent to Casa de Albergaria and the familiar Roman Road, through rocky outcrops and thick oak forests was another delight. The walk alongside the Albufeira proved a pleasant end to an excellent walk – their longest of the week.

By this time Richard was in need of some culture and had had his fill of rough stones underfoot so decided to walk the Roman Road from the Spanish border at Portela de Homem back to the campsite. A magical walk, superbly preserved, where you could imagine the soldiers (and their slaves) marching through the forest. He met no one until, predictably, he stopped for a beer in the village.

In the meantime, Chris, Tim and Nick set off for Ermida to do the PR14 Trilho Sobreiral da Ermida recommended by Mick and it was a cracker!

This walk had everything: miradors, waterfalls such as the Cascata do Arado, corrals with stone shepherds’ huts and an ancient cork forest. Plus importantly, a bar at the end. 14km with 750m ascent.

The Smiths drove to Porto for a spot of historic city centre tourism including visiting an exhibition of the terracotta warriors and tasting eight port wines – some of them twice!

Friday 21st – Most left early for their return flights, but Steve and Wendy took the bus for some extended sightseeing in Braga taking in the churches of Bom Jesus and the Sanctuary of Sameiro.

Later in Porto they included a walk out to the wildlife sanctuary on the south side of the Rio Douro and a toe-dip in the Atlantic Ocean and some (modest) port wine tasting.

Reptiles and amphibians

Plenty of lizards were glimpsed as they scampered away, with pride of place given to the beautiful Iberian emerald lizard (Lacerta schreiberi). Several snakes were seen with David capturing a great shot of a viper. Newts were observed in the mountain streams, a toad and a few frogs too.

There were plenty of late spring flowers out too, including two types of daffodils, the following are just a taste of what was there to be seen.

This was an excellent meet in a very interesting area with sunshine everyday. The accommodation was comfortable and warm just like the company. It is worth noting that the next area of Portuguese granite mountains to the east are in the Montesinho Nature Park which also includes the Serra da Coroa. This area is even less well-known, with a variety of suitable walks and there is a convenient Pousada in Bregança, just right for a future visit.

Attendees

Mick Borroff (leader), David and Fi Booker-Smith, Pete Bann, Christine Harrison, Ian Hawkes, David Hick and Christine Marriott, Tim Josephy, Steve and Wendy Richards, Helen and Michael Smith, John Sutcliffe, Richard Taylor, Jennifer and Peter Tennant (both PMs) and Nick Welch.