Northern Pennines meet

Smallcleugh level

Meet Report: 7-9 October 2022 at Haggs Bank Bunkhouse, Nenthead.

Pre-meet activities 7th October

Helen and Michael timed their arrival at Forest-in Teesdale for the start of the dry weather and followed the southern side of the swollen Tees upstream to near Falcon Clints. After crossing Cronkley Fell they used the Pennine Way back to recross the Tees. On the way to Nenthead they had a good view of a male black grouse standing on a roadside wall. 

A swollen river Tees

Paul and Tamsin visited Ashgill Force where the river, which was in full spate, plunges 55ft from a rock shelf beneath the road bridge.  For a bit of extra excitement you can approach through a short cave and walk behind the waterfall – there was too much water to go behind the waterfall and it would have been best to wear full waterproof clothing.  Next they visited the Epiacum Roman Fort which has some impressive defensive ditches. 

Ashgill Force in spate

Dining opportunities in the Nenthead area are fairly limited so almost all of us independently ended up at the fish and chip shop in Alston. There were 13 people at the meet; if there had been any more we would have been sitting on each other’s laps in the sitting room. Four people from Craven Pothole Club took the small bunk room downstairs.

Saturday 8th October

Harvey very kindly offered to take Carol, John, Helen B, Conrad, Rory, Tamsin and Paul for a look round Smallcleugh Mine (promising not only to take us in, but to return with a similar number). We geared up in the mines car park at Nenthead, then Harvey, being an active member of the Nenthead Mines Conservation Society led us on a guided tour of some surface features before leading us nonchalantly through a rather ominous low stone arch, under a swinging grating and into passageway which was ankle-deep with water.  Silver and zinc were mined as well as lead; unusually (perhaps because the volcanic intrusions which carry the ore flowed between flat limestone strata) the local ore veins run horizontally at different levels. We passed a number of open shafts disappearing down into darkness, with old stopes and ore shafts in the roof at times, eventually reaching a much more open area  of levels where small pieces of galena (lead ore) could still be found). Harvey was pleased to find “Hetherington’s crawl” – a long low tunnel cut by the old miners to look for (and find) another big area of ore. On our way back to the entrance we had various diversions to explore side-passages  and what seemed to have been a winching area.  It was clear that the whole hillside was a maze of shafts and tunnels, but Harvey, as promised, emerged into daylight with all seven followers. The whole expedition was fascinating, and we were fortunate to have such an experienced and knowledgeable guide.

Peter, Michael and Helen made a 25km round of Cross Fell from Garrigill passing Greg’s Hut which was closed for re-roofing. Views from the top were clear in all directions allowing identification of several Lake District hills. A sploshy return was made from Tees Head. A later “short-cut” east of Black Band was indistinct though leavened by spotting the walls of shooting butts topped with artificial grass. 

Cross Fell top

Tim combined two circular bike trails on his electric mountain bike. Starting on the Alston circuit he passed the miners gearing up in the Nenthead car park and climbed up to cross the moors SW to Garrigill in the South Tyne valley. Reaching the Penrith road soon after he turned NW and made a tough 3 mile ascent to Hartside Top, all into a strong headwind. The Hartside Loop was almost all off road, boggy at first but with some exhilarating descents. If he’d bothered to use the right glasses when planning the route he wouldn’t have been quite so surprised by the steepness of the return to the start. The 5 mile descent back to Alston was completed without turning a pedal!

Ricker Gill Bridge, Hartside Moor

After a restorative sausage roll from the excellent deli in the Spar in Alston, another very steep climb led to the finishing stretch along a delightful series of lanes high above the Nent Valley. 36 miles and over 5000ft of ascent. Both battery and legs were exhausted by the end.

There were a number of short post-mine walks; Rory had a short walk over the tops above Haggs Bank for views and a look at another disused mine. Tamsin & Paul patrolled a section of Hadrian’s Wall above Haltwhistle.

Hadrian’s Wall above Haltwhistle

The evening meal cooked by Rory. Earlier in the day, sounds of approval could be heard coming from the kitchen… “Bangers and Mash!! Oh great!!!”.  It was well worth the wait.

Michael gave us a pre-dinner performance describing, with actions, how we should collect our food, emphasising how many sausages we should help ourselves to. The bangers, which Rory had bought from his local bakery (not butchers) and were deliciously spicy and cooked to perfection, were served with mash, carrots, cabbage and gravy. Pudding was apple pie (bought from the local co-op in Alston) with cream, and there was enough left over to feed the four Craven Pothole Club members.

Sunday 9th October

Harvey conducted Tim and Conrad around part of the Rampgill mine, the entrance of which is conveniently located right in the car park. After plenty of wading, some just above welly height in a beautifully walled horse level they found the old horse gin, a horizontal winding drum built to service a nearby shaft. On the return, Whisky Junction with its collection of old bottles was visited before a slow exit was made admiring the calcite formations.

Helen S & B with Peter and Michael first visited Ash Gill Force where the water flow had reduced sufficiently to allow closer inspection.

Ashgill Force, what a difference a day makes!

They then walked from Alston, along the Pennine Way to the aforementioned Roman Fort and back alongside the South Tynedale narrow-gauge railway. 

South Tynedale Railway Green Dragon
Pennine Way N of Alston

Tamsin and Paul did a circular walk over the summit of Cross Fell from Kirkland on the western side.

Descending from Cross Fell, Tamsin Spain

Rory had a short walk in Weardale on the way home.

Thank you to Rory for providing the Saturday evening meal and to Harvey for the Nenthead Mine guided tours.

Attendees: Rory Newman, Tim Josephy, Helen Smith, Michael Smith, Conrad Tetley, Harvey Lomas, Peter Bann (PM), Helen Brewitt, Carol Whalley, John Whalley, Paul Magson, Tamsin Spain.

One response to “Northern Pennines meet”

  1. John and Carol reported : On Sunday we went over the moors to Arkengarthdale, stopping for a pint at the Tan Hill where the wind was characteristically atrocious. We pitied the cyclists! Took a few shots over Garrigill, which had a nice light, and the typical whitewashed farm buildings round there stood out well

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