Meet Report: 15-18 March 2018.

The weather during the journey northward was promising and the forecast suggested strong winds would dissipate during Friday. On arrival at the MS/BMC Alex MacIntyre hut in Onich, just west of Ballachulish, the warden and his wife were in the throes of departing following news of a family bereavement that day.

I drove just round the corner to the Loch Leven Hotel, stepping down to the old ferry jetty and musing on the last time I travelled up this brae. It was in June 1965, several days before I celebrated my fifth birthday near John O‘Groats. But this was not the time to toast these long ago events, the barman lamented that he had recently received a twelve month driving ban and a 900 euro fine for driving with 32 mcg of alcohol in his blood; in England the threshold is 35mcg. I had a glass of appropriately named “Nanny State” alcohol free beer with my meal.

Bob Peckham arrived from Inverness, the remainder of the meet were travelling after work. The President’s Progress arrived safely before midnight with the Nottingham contingent and Richard Smith set off from home on Friday morning. When I last visited this hut in September with my youngest son, Ben, it felt slightly damp and dingy. However in late winter, having been regularly occupied, the premises were much cosier. The main room is heated by an electric fire masquerading as a multi fuel stove. The sofa and armchairs are of a design that one used to see on hastily erected bonfires just before the 5^th of November.

Friday morning looked promising, some tops were visible, the wind was pushing the clouds across the sky but this was forecast to subside. It didn’t.

The President and Bob drove round to Kinlochleven and scaled Beinn na Caillich, then on to Mam na Gualainn, both west of Aluminiumville. The reports of good snow conditions at higher levels but a ferocious and very cold wind defined the day and indeed the whole meet.

David Large, Anca Pordea and guest Jason Lees found Binnein Mor via Sgurr Eilde Beag in splendid isolation, the solitude interrupted only by the sight of a ptarmigan and separately a vole. The wind had sculpted a double cornice along parts of the ridge. The winter landscape is often majestic.

Andy Syme and Peter Elliott headed into the Lost Valley and attempted a climb, The Graduate, which proved to be out of condition; the strong wind sent the duo helter-skelter down the hill all the way to Fort William.

Richard drove up from Newcastle and onwards to Kinlochmore to make a circular walk, incorporating the Grey Mare’s waterfall which now has a via ferrata, then on to Loch Eilde, returning by the River Leven.

Hilton set off for Stob Corrie nam Beith with a view to ploughing up Summit Gully. In the corrie, the strong winds and mixed snow hampered progress and in the absence of any moral fibre he returned to the car. The afternoon was spent stitching a long section of trouser leg that had yielded to a crampon point during one of a number of tumbles as a result of the strong winds.

We were a party of nine, catering together and each evening there were variously one or three other guests. The facilities in the hut, for our numbers were good, we just about managed. The hut accommodates 16 plus the warden. If several small parties were in attendance one would probably do well to eat out.

On Saturday the President and Bob again drove round to Kinlochleven and scaled Sgurr Eilde Beag. They continued round the ridge to Na Gruagaichean; given the conditions the pair had no compunction in missing out Binnein Mor.

David, Anca and Jason headed up the Allt a’Mhuillin. The not inconsiderable aim was to pick up Carn Mor Dearg then the Ben, repeating the north east ridge, finally dropping into Coire Leis. There is no better testament to the severity of the conditions than that David was beaten back by the high winds at around 2500ft. The party took solace in walking up Glen Nevis to Steall and beyond, returning to the hut before dark.

Andy and Peter also headed up the Allt a’Mhuilinn and managed to climb The 1934 Route, graded II/III, on the west face of the Tower Ridge. Most routes at this height appeared to be in condition.

Hilton drove Richard round to Ballachulish to pick up Sgurr Dearg via the inviting looking Schoolhouse Ridge. The wind propelled Richard onto Sgurr Dhonuill via a narrow snow arete.

Meanwhile Hilton drove up Glencoe and after watching folk struggle in the wind just beyond the car park, modified his ambitions, which by late afternoon he had failed to achieve.

Hilton as meet leader provided his usual stodge, demonstrating an admirable but very real lack of imagination.

Sunday, brighter but no calmer witnessed an early departure after the usual chores. Richard, undeterred, completed the Ring of Steall. The snow conditions were excellent however again the strong winds prevailed. After negotiating the wire bridge Richard travelled clockwise to minimise the effect of the wind. Nonetheless the summit of Am Bodach was reached as a horizontal ice climb, crablike on all fours. Richard managed to lose his map to the atmospherics descending Sgurr a’Mhaim.

David, Anca, Jason and Mick visited the Whangie, an interesting long corridor through rocks near Glasgow on the way home. This is a strange geological phenomenon, being the result of “glacial plucking” caused by extreme temperatures which froze the slabs of rock to the glacier. As the glacier moved, it “plucked” the hillside, causing a split, leaving the rock walls rising sheer on either side of the gap.

We were unfortunate with the weather but the first two meets this year have seen sunshine and the days following this meet saw perfect conditions. Scotland in winter remains a magnificent destination.

Attending:

Anca Pordea, Andy Syme, Bob Peckham, Chris Hilton (leader and scribe), David Large, Jason Lees (G), Mick Borroff, Peter Elliott, Richard Smith.