Ski touring in the Langsua NP, Norway

Meet Report: 30 March-6 April 2022.

Eight members went on a week’s hut-to-hut ski tour round Norway’s Langsua National Park, west of Lillehammer, encountering fewer than ten people but several hundred reindeer.

For members returning from the rather wet and grey Costa Blanca meet with only a few days to reorganise kit for this ski tour it was discouraging to discover that our chosen area had unseasonably warm weather and there were reports of the snow becoming patchy. Other sources mentioned insufficient sound snow-cover for snowmobiles, meaning that usually marked ski routes had not been re-marked, cabins had not been resupplied and a serviced hut we had intended to use was no longer planning to open for Easter. The forecast though was for colder conditions with some new snow. Thankfully, the decision to change the meet to a higher area was not made as the Langsua gave blue skies, good skiing conditions, plenty of snow and quiet cabins.

The Langsua protected area of moorland, tarns and mountains covers 1,000 km2 (that’s about half of West Yorkshire) most of it above 1,000m. Several self-service DNT cabins provide accommodation and a few peripheral parking areas provide good access.

Kevin, Richard S, Niko and Kjetil with the Rondane behind.

Kjetil and Kevin made reaching our starting point in the east of the area straightforward by collecting the remaining six members from Oslo airport. Packing the former’s car with three more sets of kit greatly reduced the space available in the boot for Niko, the Giant Schnauzer. Even with a refreshment stop it was only a couple of hours to an overnight cabin below Hafjell, near Lillehammer. A Thursday start to the skiing meant that we would be using the more popular accessible cabins midweek and the more remote ones during the busier weekends.

A snow-covered private toll road took us up to Synstgardsetra parking area which we left late in the morning, initially skiing along a summer road before branching off south towards a wooden bridge over the Revåa by one of the many frozen lakes. Continuing down to Liomseter (16.5km with 250m↑) as the light was fading we encountered our first problem. We knew the serviced cabin-cum-café was closed but had expected the self-service cabin to be nearby. It was not. Search parties sent southeast and west failed to find it and eventually it was found 500m to the northwest. One key fits all the DNT cabins so we were soon in, the log-burning stove lit and a meal being prepared. These are well-appointed huts with bunk beds, duvets, an equipped kitchen, fuel and a basic larder.

Malcolm and Richard S check the packet instructions

Friday dawned brighter and by 9:30 we were heading west initially along the remains of a trail before bearing left onto a ridge which we hoped would allow a drop into the valley with the next cabin, Haldorbu. Unfortunately, woodland there barred our way so it was along the ridge and into a shallow valley on the right to avoid repeated undulations. From a windswept plateau we looked directly down towards the hut and each took our own wide sweeping turns to lose 160m of height (10.3km with 170m↑).

Saturday saw a turn north back up onto the plateau, along and then round a mountain spur to follow a valley gently down to the Skriurusten cabin (16km with 390m↑). Approaching the spur, Niko suddenly started barking and raced off up a ridge with the small orange sled bouncing along behind – he had scented a herd of reindeer which we had just noticed in the distance. Kjetil shouted to no avail then set off after him. Thankfully, Niko had got into a tangle with his traces and ground to a frustrated halt so could be put on a leash and brought back. Meanwhile, three of us wondered how we’d manage without the kit we had on that sledge. The reindeer? They’d trotted across the mountain side and up a wide gully and had settled to graze a wind-cleared edge. We too had a pause to eat below the spur in a small private fishing cabin.

Sunday’s breakfast was porridge mixed the previous evening and enhanced with chopped dried fruit packed as treats. This highest section of the round skirted round the northern end of Langsua Nordre mountain to Storkvolvbua cabin in a couple of hours (9km with 276m↑ in two hours). Skins (preventing sliding backwards) were required for the pull up the valleyside but then it was plain sailing towards a subsidiary bump, Brennhøa, for a sharp right turn and a shallower rise to a pass and short drop to the cabin at 1205m. The secondary cabin was being reroofed by a couple who were undaunted by snow covering the roof and their makeshift wood scaffolding.

Dogs are not allowed in DNT cabins. Many cabins have a dog cage or two in a woodshed and there is a £10 charge for a dog to stay. Niko would not fit into the cage so was left loose in the Hunderom (dog room). Niko’s paws soon had the door’s lever handle pulled down and he was free. The solution was for Kjetil to take a mattress and sleeping bag and lock the two of them in there for the night.

The view from this cabin to the southeast is extensive including over to the Rondane, scene of the Club’s last ski tour a few years ago. Closer, undulating terrain was roamed by herds of reindeer feeding on the sparse exposed vegetation. These herds are not truly wild but monitored every few days by herders on snowmobiles. Short fences help with gathering the herd for the summer slaughter for hides and autumn slaughter for meat. We passed close to a herd of hundreds of reindeer as we returned directly to Liomseter cabin then another herd as we crossed the col by Nonstjønnkampen. From that col the route was a gentle descent (25km with 132m↑ in six hours). This was the only cabin we shared with others – two easy-going Norwegians who had taken a roundabout route in and arrived after sunset.

Tuesday’s route was across country to a new cabin, Vestfjellhytta opened in 2015, chosen because of its easier route out to our cars. The first five kilometres to a bridge were the only part of the round on previously skied ground. Then it was ‘off-piste’ across frozen marsh and Tverrlitjønnet lake, over a shallow col and down through sparse trees into a cold wind to reach Gryttjønnet. The remains of a marked trail took us down the Gryta valley to reach the hamlet of Nysetra and the new cabin just beyond (16km with 250m↑ in six hours).

The cabin was spacious with attic space for unbooked visitors and two bookable four-bed rooms. There were 12V (car cigarette-lighter type) sockets for charging phones, etc. and a water pump to save having to melt snow. The second or safety cabin doubled as a Hundrom and was luxurious with two beds, heating and comfortable seating.

Kevin collects while Richard T pumps at Vestfjellhytta

Skins and lack of a headwind made for easy going up past deserted Nysetra towards the cars. Then the long smooth descent to the Synstgardsetra parking was a fast and easy finish to another grand week of ski touring (7km with 110m↑ in 1½ hours). After a change and repack there it was off to Oslo’s airport, stopping only for a coffee along the way so those from England were back home late that night.

Norway is often considered an expensive destination but that is not the case for this type of trip. DNT membership for seniors is £50, direct flights cost under £150, under £300 for a full week’s accommodation, food, fuel, tolls, etc. though we did take our own alcohol and some snacks.

Many thanks to Kjetil for his detailed planning and both his and Kevin’s taxi service.