Meet Report: 7-19 March 2020.
Following well-attended club meets in Tafraout in 2009 and an excellent trek across the Jebel Sarhro in 2016, we returned to the Anti-Atlas area of Morocco having planned a fortnight’s meet in two halves. A dozen members flew into Agadir and hired cars to travel to the market town of Tafraout for a week of walking, scrambling and trad climbing. Four then flew home, while the others went to Taroudant anticipating the enjoyment of a six-day trek, culminating in an ascent of Jebel Sirwa (3305m), the highest peak in the Anti-Atlas.
The outbreak of Covid-19 and the swift lockdown of Morocco and its airspace presented us with a set of unusual and character-building problems to be resolved not usually associated with YRC overseas meets.
Saturday 7th
Arriving in Agadir airport on evening flights, we transferred to Hotel Al Mamoun in Inezgane, a suburb of Agadir, rather than attempting the long drive to Tafraout in the dark over the sinuous, narrow and poorly surfaced mountain roads.
Sunday 8th
After breakfast and hire car collection, we drove to the Hotel les Amandiers. Ged, Helen B and Tim went via Ait Baha to climb a route on the way, the others via Tiznit, stopping for lunch at the Kerdous Pass. We were given a guided tour of the fabulously located hotel – which had no guests. In Tafraout, we were warmly welcomed into our hotel by Mohamed and his friendly staff.
The climbers drove to Cheshire Cheese Crag on the south side of Jebel el Kest above the village of Anammer. Here they met two friends of Helen and climbed a couple of short pleasant routes.
In the afternoon, Mick, Bill, Rory, Alan, John, Nick and Richard walked across town to ascend a granite tor known as the Elephant’s Trunk, with its summit giving a great view of the town overlooking three Muslim cemeteries, the middle one containing poignant graves of children.
Michael and Helen successfully went in search of, and eventually found, the 4000 year-old petroglyph of a mouflon known as “La Gazelle” near Tazka.
Monday 9th
All except the climbers drove south to the magnificent palm-lined Mansour Gorge. A car was left in Aït Mansour village and then setting off from much further down the valley near Gdourt, an interesting high-level circuit was made of the southwest rim and the rocky ridge linking the summits of Bou Jana (1572m) and Mansout (1768m). This used old mule tracks and thin paths along broad ridges with rewarding views of the higher mountains. Mick saw a smoothsnake basking on a water cistern. The party eschewed an hour’s walk back along the road in favour of several rounds of mint tea in the absence of beer.
Meanwhile the climbing party drove round to the north side of Jebel el Kest to climb the East Buttress of Ksar Rock. They stopped on the way in Igdouanif to feed Ged’s insatiable appetite for omelettes, then, whilst gearing up by the road, they were stopped from going further by marshals controlling a wild boar hunt. Amidst volleys of gunshots they were invited to a nearby house for tea. The elderly lady of the little shack produced tea, coffee, dates, olives and bread, to which the trio struggled to do the justice that politeness dictated.
Boar hunt over, the 400ft route was despatched in fine style with Helen rattling off the hard pitches including an excellent steep and airy final wall.
Tuesday 10th
Mick stayed in bed with a 24hr bug (though probably not Covid-19).
Michael, Helen S, Rory and Richard parked south of Tizi Ou Manouze and scrambled the Douar Tizi ridge to the east and from its 1795m highpoint spotted Cuvier’s gazelle grazing beyond. Turning north they traversed minor tops to reach Tasselt (1961m) accompanied by Alpine Choughs. They descended to Tizi Ou Manouze.
Eleven years earlier, several members traversed the same scrambling ridge. The only differences Michael noticed were: the collapse of the crude shelter near the summit where there was previously a full tea-making kit; and, the drought-induced absence of lupins and marigolds in the fields. The route remains a great day of straightforward scrambling with only the one spot where a rope might be worthwhile at the ruined watchtower foundations.
Alan, John, Nick and Bill undertook a walk from the village of Tizi Ou Manouze up to the summit of Tasselt. Bill wisely called it a day at the col below and traversed under the peak to the return path, while the other three somehow managed to lose both each other and the trail itself, not only on the ascent but also on the descent. Happily, Bill moved the car into a very visible location in the valley below to provide a useful focal point and assured that we were able to eventually reunite.
The climbers had a day best forgotten. They went to the north side of Jebel el Kest to climb a route called Wild Country, reckoned to be one of the best V Diffs anywhere. They found the parking place, set off in high spirits, chatting away and got lost. How can you miss a 500ft high crag? You can on Jebel el Kest. After four hours of wandering, including trying to get directions from a shepherd and his wife who were collecting herbs, they found the crag but too late in the day to do the route. Back in Tafraout in the late afternoon, Ged and Tim climbed a bolted route, Freeway, on a granite dome 5 minutes from the hotel.
Wednesday 11th
Some spent the morning investigating the weekly souk in Tafraout and in the afternoon explored the countryside around the town including the granite outcrop known as Le Chapeau Napoleon. An interesting Berber house said to be 600 years old and now a museum of country life was visited, complete with a full mint-tea ceremony. The nearby petroglyph was within walking distance. Later, an off-road drive allowed a walk amongst the Belgian artist Jean Verame’s recently re-painted famous Painted Rocks which were seriously faded in 2009.
During the afternoon Bill went on a 13km circular walk direct from the hotel into the Ameln Valley. Once over a col on the outbound leg there were fine views of the “Lion’s Head” on the south side of the Jebel El Kest massif. Route finding was straightforward other than an area south west of Ammeine crossing the stream bed, which had many false trails. The final leg of the return into Tafraout was via the rather untidy dry riverbed leading back into the site of the weekly souk. However, overall it proved to be a very pleasant walk based on one obtained from the Wikiloc website.
Another frustrating day for the climbers. After driving west along the Ameln Valley to Tanalt (more omelettes), they negotiated the notorious Samazar Hairpins on a steep dirt track, made more precarious by the huge bulldozers which were grading the road. They were heading to Dragon Rock, but with confusing guidebook instructions they failed to find it. Cutting their losses, they carried on to Ksar Rock where they climbed the very fine VS route Sahara. During the abseil descent, the rope knocked a loose block off which fortunately missed Helen by a whisker.
Thursday 12th
Mick, John, Bill and Alan motored over to Ida-Ougnidif, where they separated. Mick and John ascended Amzkhssan (1804m) on thin paths, passing groves of almond trees and up a pathless valley to a col. The summit ridge was gained by an easy scramble up a vegetated rake and then a boulder choke, with expansive views of the Tassilla summits and the Tamza valley. Careful navigation down the north side and over a subsidiary ridge returned them to the col and back to the car.
Bill and Alan meanwhile opted for a rather short, gentle walk around Tamgelochte fortress and across fields to Kasbah Tizourgane where they were hopeful of finding refreshments. Alas, both the metal doors were firmly locked, and no amount of shouting and banging could open them. So they turned their attention to completing their planned circuit, passing through a succession of sleepy villages, arriving back at the car ahead of schedule.
Helen S, Michael, Richard, Nick and Rory drove to the sleepy village of Imi Ntizeght in the Ameln valley to tackle the Tizgut ridge scramble. This is a grade 3 scramble along a ridge just 2.5km long and said to take about 5 hours. Sounds like an easy day. It wasn’t. The ridge was easily gained but soon presented a steep tower and the rope was needed. Here, Helen decided to skirt the ridge’s southern flank instead. Though the rope was only needed a couple more times, the ridge presented near continuous scrambling on sound rock, generally keeping to the crest. There were down climbs, hand traverses and a small window to pass though. Towards the eastern end, there were easier sections, but we were caught by a passing rain cloud and ominous sounds of thunder. There was no time to linger on the top to savour the achievement and thankfully the rainfall was light and intermittent. The better descent route was to the north to pick up a vague line to Sidi Abdeljabbar where Helen had been watching out for us but being three hours late, she had headed back to the car. Above the Sidi, a family of wild boar were sent scampering away. Heading back along the valley, Michael headed up to the road and within seconds was picked up by the returning climbers so was soon able to reassure Helen all was well.
The three climbers stayed on the south side of Jebel el Kest today, driving the short distance to Oumsnat from where they walked up to Palm Tree Gorge. They climbed 3 single pitch VS climbs in pleasant but only partially shady conditions.
Friday 13th
For something different Mick, Bill, Alan and Nick drove west to Tanalt to do a low-level walk up the lush Tirki River valley which still had flowing water. This started as an interesting scramble from the road bridge over water-worn slabs beside the river with plenty of frogs to compete with the numerous songbirds to fill the air with sound. The valley was lined with old heavily overgrown cultivation terraces once watered by leats and the ‘path’ required some bushwhacking, causing Bill to regret his choice of shorts. We crossed the river and climbed up more open slopes to a concrete track leading to a hamlet and a cave used by a local potter. He was in residence and was making earthenware charcoal braziers using a coil-pot technique while we watched. We returned to the bridge on a good path above the north bank.
Taking a recommendation from the 100 best climbs guidebook, the climbers went north again to climb Curved Ridge HVD on Lower Eagle Crag. Only the first pitch had any difficulty. The rest was pleasant enough although hardly warranted a rope. During the descent, spots of rain were evident and by the time they reached Igdouanif a steady downpour was in progress. So they joined fellow friends from the Climbers’ Club taking refuge at the café which is fast becoming a Moroccan version of Pete’s Eats, renown for its gatherings, to sip mint tea and coffee.
Michael, Helen S, Richard and Rory drove the short distance to the village of Tazult and set off up an increasingly unlikely path between huge rock faces with impressive echoes. This walk circumnavigated the huge rock scenery above the “Lion’s Face”. A long uphill section – much of it pathless – led over the “Lost World” col to a higher col with superb views. We tried – and failed – to find a route to the Lion’s Face summit. A descending traverse following a mule track led to a viewpoint where the awesome face could be seen. A steep awkward section down loose rock, then an interesting scramble down another gully (thanks Michael and Richard for route finding here), gave a descent route even more unlikely than the ascent. A final problem where a new house had cut the described route was successfully resolved, and we reached the car, a bit weary but well-rewarded by the astonishing rock scenery.
Saturday 14th
Those who had not seen one of the agadirs (communal fortified Berber granaries) were keen to visit one. We were advised that the famous Agadir Tasguent with its triple courtyards that we visited in 2009 was currently closed, so Agadir Imhailen was the nearest, just to the north of Kasbah Tizourgane. Surrounded by old threshing floors, it was in good condition. The first party to arrive managed to find the elderly guardian who unlocked the doors with great ceremony and was joined by his equally ancient wife. Their appearance matched the medieval building and we felt as if we had stepped back in time. Nine of us were given a detailed tour of its single tapered courtyard and the roof by them. Some then went on to visit another one – Agadir Ikounka. Meanwhile Mick, Alan and John returned to Kasbah Tizourgane gaining entry this time for a superb lunch of Berber omelette and Moroccan salad on the terrace. Bill spotted a large herd of the (famous) tree-climbing goats on the way back to Agadir. Others ate in Ait Baha after watching browsing camels.
Helen B and Tim drove to Robin Hood rocks and climbed the three-star Centurion Buttress, a most enjoyable two pitch route. They finished off with a couple of single pitch routes before setting off for the airport.
With the hire cars returned, Rory, Ged, Michael and Helen flew home, while the others jumped into a minibus bound for Riad Tafilag in the walled city of Taroudant, where we enjoyed a delicious dinner and comfortable rooms. Unfortunately we also discovered that the FCO guidance for Morocco had been updated to say “We expect flights to and from UK other destinations to be suspended in the near future.” giving us no option but to cancel the Jebel Sirwa trek there and then.
Sunday 15th
After a good breakfast, Mick, Helen, Tim, Alan and Richard took the minibus to Taliouine as originally planned and were warmly greeted by Lhoussain Oufkir, our guide from the Jebel Sarhro trek, who was originally intending to come with us to Sirwa. We walked around the substantial Kasbah, sadly now badly damaged, with the collapse of several of its adobe walls and a gateway followed by a pleasant lunch together in the Safran Hotel. In preparation for the Trek, Lhoussain had brought along a bottle of wine which we swiftly despatched and a full bottle of gin which he was very keen that we sample. Eventually he accepted that we would drink it when we came back to complete the trek in future. Neat gin at 2pm was beyond even our most ardent gin aficionados. Taliouine grows some of the best saffron on the planet and so we bought some to take home in the museum. More tree-climbing goats were seen on the way back to Taroudant.
Late afternoon, the FCO Morocco page was updated to say “Flights to and from UK will be suspended from midnight 16 March.” This prompted frantic activity by all with smartphones to try to book individual seats on earlier flights with any carrier.
Monday 16th
After a good breakfast and partly successful rebooking of flights, we set up a WhatsApp group appropriately titled “Escape from Morocco”, which was to prove invaluable over the coming days as a communication tool between members at different airports, parts of the same airport and hotels or in buses and taxis.
We went for a walk around the medina of Taroudant, taking in both the Berber Souk and the Arab Souk, slightly dazed, but this was mitigated by an excellent lunch of fried fish just round the corner from the Marché de Poisson, then another superb dinner and a beer at the Riad.
We found out that the British Embassy had managed to negotiate an extension to the cut-off date for repatriation flights to midnight on Thursday 19th, giving us more leeway on flights. The Consulate also set up an email address to send in contact details for Brits, which we submitted. At this point most had found alternative flights.
Richard, Bill and John set off from the Riad for a hotel in Marrakesh in a very fast grand-taxi.
Tuesday 17th – Thursday 19th
We discovered that the British Ambassador to Morocco, Thomas Reilly, had a personal twitter feed which was rich with up to date information and Alan’s local contacts facilitated our inclusion in a Covid-19 Marrakech WhatsApp group, where a group of expats with local contacts did a tremendous job in assisting with information and practical assistance with the evacuation. Ryan Air and easyJet shamefully communicated nothing to individuals about the situation at any time during the week. In Marrakesh airport the queue of customers desperately trying to change flights had to be seen to be believed. All being served by one easyJet Agent who had a wait of 5-6 hours, often without success.
Mick and Tim caught the midday bus to Marrakech passing a compound of taxicab being fumigated and their drivers being thermally imaged. Ejected from their hotel in Marrakech, Richard, Tim and Mick were taken under the wing of a French family in a nearby Riad who were celebrating a milestone birthday. We were able to ‘pay’ for our accommodation and supper with a bottle of whisky (not even a malt) which all enjoyed and improved our language skills. You never know when a bottle of whisky becomes an essential item – especially in a Moslem country. The central square of Jemaa El Fna was virtually deserted and the souks closing down under the imminent lockdown together with hotels, cafes and restaurants.
In a nutshell, those with tickets on flights which were not later cancelled by the airline departed on time from either Agadir or Marrakech airports. Helen did brilliantly to get to the front of the easyJet stand-by queue and caught a flight from Agadir on Wednesday afternoon, 24 hours ahead of her booked flight while, conversely, Nick had to endure a last-minute cancellation at Agadir on Wednesday night and had to take a last-minute taxi transfer to Marrakech early on Thursday, while others at home and still in Morocco searched for and found a seat on a BA flight for him – the last one on the plane and checked him in on-line. It was a harrowing time for all with massive queues at each airport with passengers either trying to get information, book new tickets or get on the wait list or pass through baggage drop and onto their flight. Gallingly some of our planes left with empty seats but once we had communicated this to the Embassy matters improved.
Used to watching out for each other on the hill, we worked well together through the uncertainties to support each other (especial thanks to Helen Brewitt for booking Nick’s flight!) and Mick was the last one out on Thursday evening, palpably relieved that all on the meet had finally ‘escaped’.
Between Monday and Saturday, the British Embassy team negotiated with the Moroccan authorities to allow 49 repatriation flights (coming in empty and leaving full). Some 8,520 passengers were thus taken to the UK by their efforts, with no Brits left stranded at the airport. A great effort.
A memorable meet, but not entirely for the right reasons.
(N.B. Place name spellings have been taken from those used in the Cicerone guide and OAC mapping).
Participants:
Helen Brewitt, Mick Borroff (joint leader), Ged Campion, Bill Gibbs, Tim Josephy, Rory Newman (President), Alan Palmer (joint leader), Helen Smith, Michael Smith, John Sutcliffe, Richard Taylor, Nick Welch.
Further Reading, Websites and Maps
Walks and Scrambles in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas. David Wood. Cicerone Press, 2018. We found this to be an excellent guidebook to the area, which describes some 40 walking and scrambling routes, with GPX files available.
A sets of modern 1-25k and 1-50k topo maps of the area are produced by the Oxford Alpine Club.
Climb-Tafraout is a useful online resource for climbers and trekkers visiting the Anti-Atlas.
The climbers in action:
We used the snowEvaluator website to assess historical snow cover at the summit of Jebel Sirwa for the meet dates and to monitor levels in the two weeks before the meet. This site displays a false color image for the selected week (red = snow) overlaid on aerial imaging. These are two screenshots showing the snow cover in January and March 2020. The second image shows that the snow was confined go the northern facing gullies and our trekking route to the south would have been snow-free.
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